petspedia

جيرارد يغيب لمدة شهر عن الملاعب

2011-03-11T18:25:00.001-08:00

الصقر : قسونا على القادسية من اجل اسعاد الجماهير الحمراء

2011-03-11T18:17:00.001-08:00

2011-03-09T09:52:00.001-08:00

صحيفة : الزمالك يسعى للتعاقد مع ابراهيما كامار

2010-11-15T09:12:00.001-08:00

اشارت تقارير صحفية الى ان نادى الزمالك المصرى يسعى حاليا للتعاقد مع المهاجم الغينى ابراهيما كامارا لاعب منتخب غينيا و فريق الاوليمبى الباجى التونسى و اشارت التقارير الصحفية الى ان اللاعب تالق بشدة فى الفترة الاخيرة و لفت الية انظار كثير من السماسرة و الوكلاء مما دفع الزمالك الى ارسال احدى وكلاء اللاعبين الى تونس لمتابعة اللاعب عن قرب فى مباراة الاولمبى الباجى و النادى الافريقي فى الدورى التونسى و تالق اللاعب فى تلك المباراة مما دفع مسئولى الزمالك لبدء البحث عن طريقة للتعاقد مع اللاعب الغينى و يذكر ان عقد اللاعب مع الفريق التونسى مازال مستمر لمدة موسمين و لكن التقارير الصحفية تشير الى اقتراب رحيلة فى يناير القادم الى احدى الفرق الكبرى .

dog house

2010-06-28T03:18:00.001-07:00

In the Dog House
(Or: if you're gonna build a dog house, plan ahead and make sure you've got room to sleep in it yourself, just in case)

How do you say "I love you" to an animal that doesn't speak English? Well, P-nut would tell you that you give him carrots. Jake and Miles would say you rub them, play Sock with them, and feed them smelly stuff. The cats - they'd want you to sit still and be warm. But sometimes you just want to spoil your special friends. So...

I began the "dog house project" in August 2003 and had it done by the end of the month. All told it was about 4 days of work and 6 trips to Lowe's.

The foundation of the dog house is made of pressure-treated 4x6'es lag-screwed together with 2x4 cross-members. I cut notches at the end to allow moisture to escape and to allow 2x4s to be slid underneath in hopes that it might be possible to use the front-end loader bucket to slide it onto a hay cart if we ever need to move it. To make sure everything would last a good long time I painted 2 coats of creosote on the foundation to keep it sealed.

Things I learned at this stage:

If the foundation of the dog house is not square, you will be hating life later.
If the dimensions of the foundation are not a convenient multiple of the sheathing sheets you're going to use, you're going to be spending a lot of time lapping sheathing pieces and cursing yourself.

Here the framing and uprights are together. There are stiffeners inserted in the studs kind of at random. The jacks for the front door and windows are partially completed but it's still rough.

Things I learned at this stage:

When builders nail 2 studs together at each corner of the building of the dog house it's for good reason: it's a lot easier to attach the sheathing when you're aiming for a 4" area than a 1 3/4" area..
Toe-nailing boards is a big drag. For $.50 you can get metal plates that support the corners. These make life a lot easier and the resulting structure is lots stronger.

Building the trusses was easy. I thought that part would be hard. Basically, you figure out the amount of overhang you want on the eaves, then the angle of the roof, and the length of the ridge-board and compute everything very carefully. Or you build a truss and see how it looks - ask your wife - then iterate. I got it right the first time then duplicated them and everything was great. The trusses have notches cut to support them where they rest on the top boards and I centered them over studs. If this was a real dog house it would not be to code because the trusses are too far apart. There are these little metal brackets that cost $.75 that can attach a truss to a rafter. Or you can spend all day nailing them and trying to get them straight. Your call. In this picture you can also see the jacks and framing for the front windows and door. Someone pointed out that "dogs like dark lairs; windows are not a good idea." I was crushed because I wanted to make cute little windows with curtains for them in the dog house. So instead when I sheathed the interior I didn't cut the holes for the windows on the inside but cut them on the outside. Then I painted the inside black. So it looks like there are windows - which makes me happy - but it's still a dank little cave inside - which makes Miles and Jake happy.

Things I learned at this stage:

If you're building a dog house, and don't know much about dogs, ask someone who knows what dogs like what you should aim for. The dogs don't speak English so you have to listen to them by proxy.

This is the framing at the door of the dog house. you can see the sheathing is on, now. The exterior is composite barn sheathing that has been primed with epoxy paint. The interior is tile-board set into a routed edge on 1" plywood that is screwed into the foundation. The structure at this point was incredibly rigid. Here you can see the way the windows were done: the back of the tileboard is painted black and not cut, but the sheathing is cut to give the appearance of a real window. The door is large enough that a human can comfortably crawl in. You can't see the roof from here but the roof is done with a double roof system that leaves the eaves open to a ridge vent. This is because the dogs are furry and can adjust better to cold than heat. So the roof is actually an active cooling system to transport the sun's heat from the roof away from the dogs. They have fur coats (and got them the ethical way so all you anti-fur activists better leave them alone).

Things I learned at this stage:

Design your roofing system appropriately for your objectives. Non-human residents might not need central heat.

Here you can see the sheathing attached and the roof with the vented ridge. The vent is actually a corner piece from an aluminum siding kit - a nice square-edged black piece with angled perforations that are perfect for keeping air out. The inner roof of the dog house runs from the rafter just under the eaves to the center of the ceiling, so the upper roof competely floats on its own. To the right of the building you'll see some square grey things. Those are marble tiles. When we bought the farmhouse I found about 12 square feet of marble composite tiles in the basement, stacked in the corner. Just the perfect thing for a dog house! After all, we can clean it with a garden hose if they drag something really disgusting in there. Also, the cool stone might make the lair more comfortable in the summer. In the winter I will put a piece of carpet down and throw it away in the spring.

Things I learned at this stage:

Here is where I paid the price for not making sure my dimensions were "convenient" - each of the sides of sheathing had to be pieced together, routed, and caulked. It took me twice as long to complete this stage as it would have if I had thought through sheathing dimensions first and made sure that the divisions were even and there was a stud near where each sheathing splice would be so I could screw the sheathing overlap into a stud for extra strength.

Yes, I added a front porch. I thought "what would be finer than to have a place to lurk where the rain wouldn't hit your ears?" - adding the front porch and its roof was a day-long affair but it really makes the "chateau de dogue" look special. The porch posts are turned railing segments from a human-sized porch railing. The porch is made of 2x4s in a rectangle with a supporting 2x4 down the center, so it cradles marble tiles that I cut with a tile saw to comprise the floor. The roofing is asphalt shingle over tar felt paper, nailed down and caulked, and I dressed the edges up with soffit-like overhangs that encourage the water to run down at an angle instead of dripping onto the porch roof. I'm happy to say that they worked perfectly. The overhang on the eaves seems about right and the eaves make a daylight-shaded lair for the dogs to hang out under during the day. We put a 20x20 foot metal pen around the house so they have a protected area to hang out in. I painted the exterior with 2 coats of red oil barn paint and did all the trim with 4 coats of killz. Then it rained for a week. This picture shows Miles exiting his new dog house the day that they took over ownership of the place.

Things I learned at this stage:

Completing a fun project is delightful, especially when the residents are happy with the result!
When I added the porch I had to correct for angular distortion in the dog house. It wasn't hard but it was a lot of fiddly adjusting and sawing off a tenth of an inch here and there until it was right.
When you're levelling something with a spirit level make sure everything is levelled to the same standard. The porch roof is actually level (according to earth's gravitational field, anyhow) - the rest of the house is not because the yard isn't. OOps. So the porch roof is visibly "off kilter." Several people said I did a good job of making the dog house match typical rural Pennsylvania construction standards. That's a compliment, right? Or have I been dissed?
The dogs don't care about any of that

.
This is the dog house after a rainy week of occupation by its redneck residents. They got mud on stuff, chewed the porch posts, and generally broke the place in properly. We got a truckload of red hardwood mulch (matches the walls!) and covered the grass in the pen so now it's not sea of mud anymore.

Things I learned at this stage:

dog house builders should not neglect landscaping

By the time all was said and done it was no longer "the dog house" it was the "chateau de dogue" and the resulting structure weighs about 900-lbs and is the size of your average college dorm room

best dog beds

2009-07-30T14:28:00.000-07:00

5JJXXN5XQ7H3

dog beds 2010

2009-07-30T14:24:00.000-07:00

cute dog wallpaper

2009-07-19T07:29:00.001-07:00

cute dogs

2009-07-19T07:25:00.001-07:00

dogs in movies

2009-07-16T11:28:00.001-07:00

dog collar

2009-07-16T11:09:00.001-07:00

dog apparel

2009-07-16T07:37:00.001-07:00

dog houses

2009-07-16T07:22:00.000-07:00

dogs for you not for ur dog

2009-07-16T07:21:00.000-07:00

i know that some of you guys really like to give your dogs food off the table. Yes, I love when my people give stuff to me, BUT what you may not know is, some people food you give to your dogs could actually be harming them. So here are some tips on what to NOT give your dog.

1) Dough. It can rise in their stomach if they eat to much. Since it’s mushy most of them don’t chew it which can also make them choke.

2) Chocolate. It can cause heart problems, kidney problem and vomiting/diarrhea.

3) Onions/Garlic. They can cause dogs to lose blood cells. Or not produce them. It can cause loss of hunger. Also makes them dizzy. Though it takes quite a few pieces of onion to cause damage.

4) Avocados. YOU DON’T WANT TO GIVE THOSE TO YOUR DOG. They are absolutely horrible for them. They have a toxin in them that causes damage to their whole bodies.

5) Alcohol. Please watch out, even though you may not think you dog would get into it. If you have a beer on the table and walk off, you dog could spill it. If your dog consumes alcohol it could get alcohol poising very easily.

6) Grapes/Raisins. They can give dogs stomach and digestive system problems. Those problems can lead into vomiting, and the runs (Poops).

7) Energy Things. Any kind of energy things/bars can cause a fast heartbeat. This may lead to a heart attack.

8) Nuts. You really don’t want to give them nuts. Can cause stomach issues and intestine problems.

Always watch out at what you give them. You might not think anything about it, but it’s best to be safe then sorry.

BUILDING TRUST

2009-07-14T00:15:00.000-07:00

BUILDING TRUST
Picture your dog getting loose and chasing a cat across the road. Your heart is in your mouth because you are afraid a car might hit him. When he finally returns, you are angry and soundly scold him for chasing the cat and giving you such a scare.Here is how your dog looks at this situation. First, he chased the cat, which was a lot of fun. Then he came back to you and was reprimanded, which was no fun at all. What you wanted to teach him was not to chase the cat. What you actually taught him was that coming to you is unpleasant.
One of the commands you will want to teach Felix is to come when called. To be successful, remember this principle: Whenever your dog comes to you, be nice to him. Reward this behavior. No matter what your dog might have done, be pleasant and greet him with a kind word, a pat on the head, and a smile. Teach your dog to trust you by being a safe place for him. When he is with you, follows you, or comes to you, make him feel wanted.
When you call your dog to you and then punish him, you undermine his trust in you. When your dog comes to you voluntarily and gets punished, he associates being punished with coming to you.
You might ask “How can I be nice to my dog when he brings me the remains of one of my brand new shoes, or when he wants to jump on me with muddy paws, or when I just discovered an unwanted present on the carpet?” For the answers, you will have to read this book; it will show you how to deal with all these situations without undermining his trust in you.

Developmental periods

2009-07-14T00:09:00.000-07:00

Developmental periods
As your puppy grows up, he will go through various developmental periods. These periods, in turn, influence how he responds to training.
The first major period that influences training occurs sometime between the fourth and eighth months, when your puppy realizes there is a big, wide world out there. Up to now, chances are the puppy followed your every footstep and perhaps even willingly came to you every time you called him. But now he wants to do his own thing—investigate a scent, follow a trail, chase a butterfly, whatever. He is maturing and cutting the apron strings. This is normal behavior. Your puppy is not being spiteful or disobedient, he’s just becoming an adolescent.
While Felix is going through this phase, it is best to keep him on leash or in a confined area until you have taught him to come when called. Otherwise, not coming when called will become an annoying and potentially dangerous habit.
Once it becomes an established behavior, it will be difficult to change, so prevention is the best cure. Chapter 9 explains how to teach your dog to come when called
Under no circumstances should you chase after your dog, as he will think you are playing his game. Instead, run the other way and try to get him to chase you. If that does not work, kneel down and pretend you have found something extremely interesting on the ground, hoping your dog’s curiosity will make him come to you. If you do have to go to your dog, approach slowly until you can calmly take him by the collar.
The need to socialize
Your dog is a social animal. To become an acceptable pet, he needs to interact with you, your family, and other humans, as well as dogs. If denied that chance, his behavior around other people or dogs may be unpredictable, either fearful or aggressive. For example, unless he regularly meets children during this period, he may not be trustworthy around them, especially when he feels cornered. Your puppy needs the opportunity to meet and to have positive experiences with those people who will play a role in his life. If you are a grandparent whose
grandchildren occasionally visit, have your puppy meet children as often as possible.If you live by yourself, make an effort to let your puppy meet other people, especially friends and members of the opposite sex. Interacting with other dogs on a regular basis as he is growing up is equally important.
If you plan to take Felix on family outings or vacations, get him used to riding in a car. Time spent on socializing now is worth the effort in making your puppy a well-adjusted companion. Puppyhood is short and goes by quickly, so use this time wisely.

WHEN TO BEGIN TRAINING

2009-07-14T00:04:00.000-07:00

WHEN TO BEGIN TRAINING
Whether your dog is a puppy, an adolescent, or an adult dog, start training him now. There is no truth in the saying “Old dogs can’t learn new tricks”—it just takes longer. For a puppy, the ideal time to begin training is at 7 weeks of age. Your puppy is most receptive to training during an 8-week window from 7 to 16 weeks.
You will be amazed at the ease and speed with which a puppy learns. The longer you wait, the harder the job will become. Make the most of the available time now!
During this period your puppy is capable of learning far more than you will teach him. What the puppy learns now he will remember for the rest of his life.
His brain is the same size as that of an adult dog; he lacks only the experience and motor coordination of an adult dog.
We know what you’re thinking: “I have plenty of time. I can wait until he’s 6 months to a year old. Let him enjoy his puppyhood.” While you may have the best of intentions, your thinking is flawed. Why? There are three reasons:
1. Your puppy is going to learn many things while he is growing up, with or without your involvement. Some of the behaviors he will probably learn are the very ones you don’t want him to do as an adult dog; for example, dashing outside, pulling on the leash, not coming when called, and jumping on people. The more ingrained these behaviors become, the greater the
difficulty in eliminating them.
2. Learning at this stage is perhaps even more important than any specific commands you want to teach Felix. Future lessons you want your dog to learn are easier to teach to a dog who had some training as a puppy.
Besides, puppies like to learn, and your puppy will look forward to his training sessions.
3. Puppies are physically easier to manipulate than grown dogs. Again, you don’t have much time—at 7 months of age dogs reach about 70 percent of their full size.

Why Train Your Dog and When to Start

2009-07-13T23:54:00.000-07:00

Trained dogs are “free” dogs. They are welcome almost anywhere because
they behave themselves around people and other dogs, they stay when told,
and they come when called. They are a pleasure to take for a walk and can
be let loose for a romp in the park. They can be taken on trips and family outings.
They are members of the family in every sense of the word.

2 What All Good Dogs Should Know
On the other hand, untrained dogs have few, if any, privileges. When guests come,
they are locked away because they are too unruly. When the family sits down to
eat, they are locked up or put outside because of begging at the table. They are
never allowed off leash because they don’t come when called. Nobody wants to
take them for a walk because they pull, and family outings with such a nuisance
are unimaginable.
Your dog—for simplicity, we call him Felix throughout this book—has a life
expectancy of 8 to 16 years. Now is the time to ensure that these years are going
to be mutually rewarding. For your sanity and his safety, train your dog. Teach
him what every good dog should know.
WHAT IS A GOOD DOG?
Many dog books tell you that dogs are loyal, obedient, trustworthy, good with children,
born protectors, and wonderful companions. Most dogs have the potential to
be great pets, but few are born that way. Almost all require some training to bring
out the best in them.
A good dog should:
• Be housetrained.
• Come when called.
• Have no bad habits.
• Stay when told.
• Not pull when taken for a walk.
Depending on your dog and what you expect from him, he may need training
in just a few of these areas or in all five.

WHAT IS INVOLVED IN TRAINING?
It may come as a surprise to you, but your dog’s ancestors were bred for their ability
to do a particular job well. Looks were considered coincidental. How readily
you can train your dog to fit into your lifestyle depends on the job for which he
was bred. For example, a dog bred for guarding is easier to train to stay on the
property than a dog bred for hunting.
Today, most owners—and we suspect you did, too—choose their pets on the
basis of appearance—“What a cute puppy!” But when you selected your dog, did
you consider how the instincts for which he was selectively bred over the course
of countless generations would affect his behavior as an adult?
Fortunately, some of these instincts are the very ones that endear the dog to you
and make him such a good pet—the legendary protectiveness of children, the
warning bark when a stranger comes on the property, the friendly greeting when
you come home, and the comfort he provides in times of sorrow. Characteristics
of specific breeds, such as the Newfoundland’s rescue instincts, the Bernese Mountain
Dog’s willingness to pull a cart, the terrier’s untiring playfulness, and the
Labrador’s eagerness to retrieve for his master, are equally appealing.
However, other instinctive behaviorsget the dog into trouble. A dog bred for guarding who does his job too well maybe accused of being vicious; one bred for herding may be chastised for chasing children, joggers, bicycles, and cars;and the hunting dog may be reprimanded for pulling on the leash when following a scent. Only the lap dog can get away with almost anything.

dog diseases and immunization 2

2009-07-09T04:41:00.000-07:00

✦ Leptospirosis: This bacterial infection is often fatal. It is usually removed from contact
with a urinary tract infection dog or water contaminated by the urine. Symptoms include fever, vomiting,
and dehydration. The bodies concerned are mainly the liver and kidneys. There is a
effective vaccine.
✦ Lyme disease: This bacterial infection affects the nerves and joints, often causing permanent
damage. It causes fever, muscle pain, weakness and joint pain. it is transmitted by
infected ticks, fleas, and flies. There is a vaccine.
✦ Parainfluenza: This is another virus that affects the respiratory system. it is also transmitted through the droplets of an infected dog containing the virus. It can be serious, especially in
puppies. There are effective vaccines.
✦ Parvovirus: The virus continues to mutate. It affects mainly puppies, aqlthough it may affect old dogs with bad immunity. It causes vomiting, diarrhea and dehydration and is transmitted by contact with an infected dog faeces and vomit.
It is often fatal, and because it continues to mutate, it has been called the most dangerous
canine virus. There are vaccines, and the makers try to follow the mutations.
✦ rabies: The virus affects the brain, causing staggering, drooling, seizures and changes in
behavior. It is caught by contact with another infected animal, often bats, skunks, squirrels, and
raccoons. It is deadly, but there is effective vaccination.Your veterinarian will make a vaccination
schedule for your puppy. The first shots are usually during your puppy's first visit to the veterinarian, usually 8 to 10 weeks of age. If the breeder gave the puppy vaccination before you brought home, make sure you bring the record with you to the vet's office.. If you have adopted an older puppy or adult dogs, bring the record in your first visit. After your veterinarian sees what was given (or not), it may discuss a vaccination calendar with you. Although many vaccines annualy have been given for many years, now many veterinarians prefer to space them, sometimes every three years. The schedule is depend on your dog's immune system and whether a disease is a threat in your area.

canine diseases and immunization 1

2009-07-09T04:33:00.000-07:00

Canine Diseases and Immunization
Canine diseases are among the greatest threats to the health of your dog. Many of these diseases are fatal
the dog is with them, and before the introduction of effective vaccines,
Thousands of dogs die each year due to these diseases. Other diseases are not usually fatal, but
can cause serious health problems.
✦ Adenovirus: This virus affects the respiratory system and is presented mostly as a cough.
It rose into the air by an infected dog on a cough droplets carrying the virus. It
can be severe, especially in puppies, but is not usually fatal. There are effective vaccines.
✦ Bordetella bronchiseptica: This bacterial infection affects the respiratory system. A
May experience sick dog coughing, sneezing and a runny nose. Secondary infections
and pneumonia may be dangerous. It was through contact with an infected dog. There
are effective vaccines.
✦ Canine distemper: This virus affects the skin of a dog, eyes and nerves. The first symptoms are
usually a runny nose and eyes, and might even appear to pneumonia. Canine distemper
can be transmitted through an infected dog faeces or in the air when a sick dog
sneezes or coughs. It is generally fatal, and those dogs who survive often have neurological disorders
problems, including seizures. There is an effective vaccine.
✦ Canine Hepatitis This virus usually begins with a sore throat and quickly spread to other
organs, especially the liver. It is highly contagious and is usually taken during a
health dog sniffs urine or nasal secretions of an infected dog. It is fatal, and dogs can
go down and die within hours of showing symptoms. There is an effective vaccine.
✦ Canine influenza: The highly contagious virus affects the respiratory system, causing a runny nose
discharge and coughing in less serious cases. More serious cases, progress to high fever and
pneumonia. It is transmitted by contact with an infected dog, especially respiratory discharges.
Most dogs recover with the support of veterinary care, dogs, but the flu can be lethal to
with the more severe form. There are currently no vaccination.
✦ Coronavirus: The virus most often visits puppies and can cause severe dehydration. The
main symptom is diarrhea, mild to severe. May there be blood in the stool serious
case. It is transmitted by contact with infected dog. Veterinary support
care, most of the puppies survive. There is an effective vaccine.

training techniques

2009-07-09T04:19:00.000-07:00

Training Tools and Techniques
Training techniques and styles have changed over time, just as any profession changes. Thirty years
ago, almost all trainers used chain slip collars (often called choke chains), and food rewards or lures
were not used at all. Dogs were praised enthusiastically for good work, and collar corrections (some
quite severe) were used to let the dog know when he made a mistake.
Today, food is commonly used as both a lure and a reward, and the variety of training tools is
growing almost daily. The techniques used to train dogs are much more varied today, too. Although
this makes it difficult for dog owners to decide which technique to use, it’s wonderful for the dogs
themselves. The variety today provides a technique for dogs of every personality.
Some of the training tools being used today include:
✦ Leashes: Leashes can range from 6- and 4-foot-long nylon, leather, or rope leashes used in
obedience training, to short traffic leads used while training in off-leash work and many
dog sports.
✦ Buckle collar: This is the collar your dog should be wearing with his identification tag on
it. Many dogs, especially once they understand what is being asked of them, need only this
collar.
✦ Chain and nylon slip collars: These collars have gotten a bad reputation because they are
often misused. When used correctly, however, a slip collar should not hurt a dog. Instead,the snap of the collar should convey only enough force to get the dog’s attention. These collars
should never be pulled tight by the owner (which could choke the dog), and the dog
should never be allowed to pull on the collar.
✦ Head halters: There are several makes and styles of head halters, and they all work on basically
the same premise: Where the dog’s head goes, the body will follow. As with any tool,
these have been misused, too, and when misused (such as by yanking on the head halter
with a leash, thereby jerking the dog’s head), the dog can suffer neck and back injuries.
However, when used correctly, with a gentle guiding motion and other training skills, this
training tool can be very effective.
✦ Prong collars: Although many people abhor these collars, it is primarily because of their
look. However, the prongs are not sharp and do not dig into the dog’s neck. Many expert
trainers prefer this type of collar, especially for strong-willed dogs just beginning their training
and who have taken control of their owners. Most of these trainers emphasize that the
prong is not necessarily for long-term use, but just to control the dog until the owner can
teach him.
✦ Food: Although thirty, and even twenty, years ago, food simply was not used in dog training,
trainers today have found that food can be a powerful training tool. It is a strong motivator,
lure, and reward. The size of the food used should be appropriate to your dog. Toy
dogs can work for tiny pieces, even crumbs, while a giant dog needs something a little bigger.
And, of course, the dog must like the food being offered.
✦ Toys: If your dog is not motivated by food, you can use other things instead. Tennis balls
are great for many dogs, as are toys with a squeaker inside, or for terriers, furry mice made
as cat toys. Just make sure that the toy is safe before you use it as a training motivator.
✦ Clickers: Clickers are small, handheld contraptions that, when pressed, make a clicking
sound. Originally used with dolphins that could not be trained using a leash and collar, the
click is used to mark good behavior. When the dog realizes that the click equals good, which
equals a food treat, he understands and can learn. Although the clicker is an effective training
tool, it requires precise timing to work well. In addition, some dogs and people simply
do not like the sound, and for them, this tool will not work.
✦ Your voice: As mentioned earlier in this chapter, your voice is the most important training
tool you have. Your voice helps your dog pay attention to you, guides him, and rewards
him.
There are other training tools, such as citronella collars to stop barking, leashes that make a noise
when the dog pulls, and harnesses that slow down dogs who pull when they go for a walk.
Electronic collars are also gaining in popularity. Many of these tools, especially electronic collars,
should be used only under the guidance of a trainer experienced in their use.

Tips for Rescuing Stray Dogs Safely

2009-07-05T23:46:00.000-07:00

Tips for Rescuing Stray Dogs Safely -- powered by eHow.com

Crate Training Puppy Dogs

2009-07-05T23:44:00.000-07:00

Crate Training Puppy Dogs -- powered by eHow.com

How to Feed Puppy Dogs

2009-07-05T23:42:00.000-07:00

How to Feed Puppy Dogs -- powered by eHow.com

How to Get Rid of Ticks on Dogs

2009-07-05T23:41:00.001-07:00

How to Get Rid of Ticks on Dogs -- powered by eHow.com

Where to Buy Dogs

2009-07-05T23:38:00.000-07:00

Where to Buy Dogs -- powered by eHow.com

Collars for Multiple Dogs

2009-07-05T23:36:00.000-07:00

Collars for Multiple Dogs -- powered by eHow.com

How to Keep Dogs and Cats From Fighting

2009-07-05T23:35:00.000-07:00

How to Keep Dogs and Cats From Fighting -- powered by eHow.com

How to Rinse Your Dog

2009-07-05T10:01:00.000-07:00

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How to Shave Your Dog

2009-07-05T09:58:00.000-07:00

How to Shave Your Dog -- powered by eHow.com

How to Dry a Wet Dog

2009-07-05T09:56:00.000-07:00

How to Dry a Wet Dog -- powered by eHow.com

How to Use a Cage Dryer with Your Dog

2009-07-05T09:54:00.000-07:00

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How to Brush Your Dog's Coat

2009-07-05T09:52:00.000-07:00

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2009-01-31T03:41:00.000-08:00

Train a Dog to Walk Without a Leash -- powered by ExpertVillage.com

2009-01-31T03:37:00.004-08:00

Chewing

Chewing is something that all dog like to do. In fact it helps to keep their jaws strong and their teeth clean. Puppies need to chew to help them during teething. If you catch your dog chewing something you don't want him to chew, take the object away from him and give him something that he is allowed to chew. Be sure to praise him for chewing the proper objects. Be sure to supply him with proper toys and bones to keep him occupied. NEVER give the dog old shoes or socks or towels or any household object as a chew toy. The dog will not be able to tell the difference between the shoe he can chew and your new alligator loafers that he definitely can't chew.

Escape Artists

Escape artists are very adept at getting out of yards. The reasons for escaping can be boredom, loneliness, looking for a mate or just wanting to get out and check out the neighborhood.

With some dogs, using a strong cable can be better than a fence, like with some of the "Nordic" breeds like huskies, who don't like being behind a fence. Very often a privacy fence will solve that problem, because they can't see what's on the other side. Chain link fences are much easier to escape from because dogs can get under the fence or actually learn to use the links to climb the fence.

Electronic fences are not very reliable for containing dogs. The problems with that type of fencing are both keeping your dog in and keeping other animals out. A dog chasing something or running away out of fear, could easily break through the electric shock without even feeling it. Once he's out of the yard, he can't get back in the yard because of the collar. Other animals can still get in your yard because they aren't wearing the collar. That can cause problems for both your dog and the visitor. Another thing to consider is the battery. If the battery wears out and you don't realize it, the fence won't work I happen to have a neighbor who experienced that situation.

I personally don't believe dogs should be left alone in a yard when you are not home. There are too many dangers to them. Escaping, being tormented by neighbors, being dog napped. When you're not home you should bring the dog inside the house or in the garage if possible.

2009-01-31T03:37:00.003-08:00

Teaching the QUIET Command

You will need either a spray bottle filled with 50/50 vinegar and water OR a tin soda can with some rocks or pennies inside and the top taped closed. Squirt the dog or shake the can to cause the dog to be quiet for a moment. The instant he stops barking say "Quiet, Good Dog" and praise him for the few seconds of silence. Repeat as necessary, always saying "Quiet" the instant he stops barking followed by a quick "Good Dog, Good Quiet." With persistence he will soon get the idea.

If all else fails and you just can't get your dog to be quiet long enough to praise him for a quiet moment your last resort can be a Citronella or Lemon spray bark collar. They work pretty well and will not harm the dog in any way. The problem with using a training collar is that the dog is usually smart enough to know when he's not wearing the collar and will probably resort to his barking again. Once you begin using it you might have to use it all the time, or at least during the times the dog is prone to barking.

Digging

Digging is done for various reasons. Once you figure out why the dog digs and what reward he is getting out of his digging, you can begin to solve your problem. Some of the more common reasons dogs dig are:

1) to get to the cool ground to lie down in; 2) out of boredom; or 3) because it's just plain FUN. Some breeds of dogs are bred for digging and rooting in the ground, like the terrier group of dogs.

The first reason is easy. Be sure there is plenty of shade and water for your dog when he is outside. The dog wants to keep cool, so why not supplying him with his own baby pool. Buy him a hard plastic pool and put it in a nice shady place (not on dirt). The dog will probably love soaking in the pool on hot days. Just be sure to keep plenty of towels handy so you can dry him off before letting him in the house.

The second reason is little harder to deal with. You might need to increase the dog's exercise time so he is too tired to be bored or give him a good meaty bone to chew, or some fun toys to play with. Also, if you leave the dog outside by himself for extended periods of time, you might try letting him come inside with the family more often. Dogs are pack animals, and don't really enjoy being by them selves. If your dog is going to be strictly an outdoor dog you might want to build him a large kennel with a cement floor so he can't dig. Just be sure to give him shelter, some toys and maybe a pool to play in.

The third reason is really hard to control. If he really enjoys digging you will probably do well to go with the flow and give him his own garden to dig in. Seriously. Dig up a small plot of ground and mix some good sand in it to keep it soft. Go out and dig with him until he realizes that it's OK to dig there. This might work well for the dogs that are bred to root and dig for vermin. I know people who have successfully done this with their digging doggies.

2009-01-31T03:37:00.001-08:00

Barking

Why do dogs bark? Some of the more common reasons that dogs bark are: 1) to warn us of a stranger approaching or someone at the door, 2) to ward off trespassers on our property whether person or animal, and 3) for attention or protest.

Barking at the door.

If your dog is barking because someone is at the door, be glad. You have a good watchdog, which is probably what you want. What you don't want is for the barking to go on and on and get out of control. The first rule is DON'T YELL at the dog. If you yell, you are joining in with the barking as far as your dog is concerned and his barking will get worse. You don't want to discourage him from barking but you also don't want to encourage him to bark more. Have a short leash draped around the doorknob and when your dog alerts you to a stranger at the door, quietly go up to him and say good dog while you put the leash on him and lead him away from the door where you can put him on a "Down Stay" so you can answer the door. If he gets up and begins barking again, repeat the process. It might be a good idea to enlist the help of a friend to come to the door and ring the bell, so you can do some training.

Barking at everything he sees.

If your dog barks at everything that goes by the house he is again protecting his property. Think about it. Something comes by the house, either people or animal, the dog barks, the person or animal goes away. The person (like the postman) or the animal was probably going to continue on anyway but your dog is convinced that he chased the intruder away. Big ego boost for the dog and a great reason to continue barking at everything that goes by. In a case like this its a good idea to keep the dog away from the windows he usually barks from. What he doesn't see won't bother him. If your dog barks while he is alone outside you need to limit the amount of time he spends outside alone. Unsupervised confinement can cause your dog to become bored and he will look for ways to entertain himself. Barking at things going by is a great way to entertain oneself.

Barking in the car.

This can be quite aggravating when you are trying to keep your eyes on the road. First, use some kind of restraint device to keep the dog from running back and forth between windows. Always have your dog pause and wait for an enter command before getting in the car. Remember, its your car not his. Stay cool and DON'T YELL and join the barking. He's probably barking for the same reasons cited above and the rewards are the same because when he barks at something it goes away. If he barks at attendants at gas stations, banks or toll booths you should hand the person a treat and ask him to toss it in the window for the dog. This might change your dogs attitude toward the situation.

Barking for attention.

You need to ignore the barks if you can and only respond to your dog when he's being quiet. If he barks when you leave or come home make those times calm and very matter-of-fact. Don't make a big deal out of your comings and goings. If your dog just wants attention all the time and seems to be glued to you, give him one of those biscuit balls or a hollow bone with some peanut butter in it to occupy his time. He needs to learn that he doesn't have to be with you every minute of the day.

2009-01-31T03:34:00.000-08:00

It is never too early to accustom your puppy to dog training collars and a leash. It is your way of keeping your dog under control. It may not be necessary for the puppy or adult dog to wear his dog training collar and identification tags within the confines of your home, but no dog should ever leave home without a collar on and without the leash held securely in your hand.

Begin getting your dog or puppy accustomed to his collar by leaving it on for a few minutes at a time, gradually extending the time you leave it on. Most dogs become accustomed to dog training collars very quickly and forget they are even wearing one.

Once this is accomplished, attach a lightweight leash to the collar while you are playing with him. Do not try to guide him at first. The point here is to accustom the pup to the feeling of having something attached to the collar.

Some puppies adapt to a dog training collar very quickly and, without any undo resistance, learn to be guided with the leash. Other pups may be absolutely adamant that they will not have any part of leash training and seem intent on strangling themselves before submitting to any sort of dog shock collar training..

dog training collars

If your puppy is one of the latter, do not continue to force the issue. Simply create a lasso with your leash and put your puppy’s head and front legs through the lasso opening so that the leash encircles his shoulders and chest, just behind the front legs.

Problem pups seem to object less to this method than having the leash around their necks. Encourage your puppy to follow you as you move away. If he is reluctant to cooperate, coax him along with a treat of some kind. Hold the treat in front of his nose to encourage him to follow you. Just as soon as your puppy takes a few steps toward you, praise him enthusiastically and continue to do so as you move along.

Make the initial session very brief and enjoyable. Continue the lesson until the puppy is completely unconcerned about the fact that he is on a leash. With a treat in one hand and a leash attached to your dog training collar in the other, you can begin to use both to guide him in the direction you wish to go.

2009-01-31T03:32:00.000-08:00

dog training rewards

In your dog’s upbringing, make use of the principles of and punishment. We give a reward when the dog does something that we would like to see repeated. The essence of reward is that it gives the dog a good feeling- Because it gets that good feeling from a certain action or exercise, it will enjoy repeating it. In rewarding, two things are important:

The dog must understand that It is being rewarded;
The dog must understand why it is being rewarded.

This would seem to be a natural conclusion, but in practice it does not seem to be so obvious. How often is a dog rewarded with only a mumbled "Good boy" and a nonchalant pat on the head? Or a morsel is thrown at it without a word being wasted?

You can tell from the dog’s reaction whether this is experienced as a reward. Its entire body and expression should radiate joy. You can achieve this by rewarding your dog lavishly with a high voice and a sincere hug. When it does something good, it is the best dog in the world and you must let it know this too!

Many people find this difficult, especially when other people are around. Don’t be shy about this, because with a clear reward your dog will learn faster.

The moment of rewarding must be well-timed. You do not reward before your dog has obeyed a command and neither do you do it afterward. If, for example, you want your dog to lie down, do not reward it at the moment it starts to obey, but only when it is actually lying down.

2009-01-31T03:22:00.000-08:00

dog training aids and toys

There’s lots of different dog training aids that can make a big difference to your success when training your dog. Dog training aids like proper collars and leashes will definitely assist you in getting the training message across to your dog and will eliminate the need for feeling like the villain when it comes to corrections.

For instance, just the sound of a link-chain collar when it is jerked will let your dog know he is doing something wrong. When you decide how far you want to take your training, you can invest in the proper dog training aids and equipment.

Toys

Do dogs need toys? Yes! Do they need one of every toy that is offered for sale? An emphatic no! Toys actually make pretty good dog training aids, and puppies and new dogs do need several toys of different kinds to keep them occupied, exercised, and out of mischief. However, don’t give your dog so many toys that the dog begins to think everything that exists is a toy to chew on.

The toys and similar dog training aids you do choose can be anything that is appropriate for the size and the age of the dog - just be sure the toys are safe and do not have buttons or strings that can be chewed off or swallowed. Also, avoid balls made of soft material that can be chewed apart and hard plastic toys that can splinter easily.

Make sure any toys and other dog training aids you give a puppy or even grown dog are too large to become lodged in the mouth or caught in the throat. Bones can be instrumental in keeping your dog’s jaw and teeth occupied and your belongings safe, especially with teething puppies.

Large knuckle bones may not seem like dog training aids (or toys for that matter), but your dog will undoubtedly think otherwise. A dog can spend the best part of an afternoon gnawing away on the same bone! It helps keep him calm and relaxed, and therefore he’ll be more responsive when it comes training time.

Teddy bears or stuffed animals that are not made specifically for dogs are not a good idea. Most of them have plastic or glass buttons for eyes that can be swallowed. Even with those removed, they are risky. Ears can be torn off and swallowed or the stuffing ripped out and ingested.

Some dogs treat stuffed animals and other soft types of dog training aids with great love and affection for weeks and months, and then suddenly, as punishment for some offense of which we have no knowledge, a dog decides to totally dismantle and swallow Mr. Teddy’s innards. You and your dog may have to spend some very unpleasant and costly time at the veterinarian’s office when this happens.

2009-01-31T03:18:00.000-08:00

Desensitizing A Dog To Inanimate Objects Or Noises]

The easiest and kindest way to help a dog overcome fear of inanimate objects is to desensitize the dog to the object by making the object a good thing instead of a scary thing. This same technique can be used for scary noises, have the dog far enough away from the noise so the dog is not reacting when you start.

For example, if your dog is afraid of blowing plastic bags:

Get lots (and I mean LOTS, being stingy is useless), of small, easily swallowed, tasty treats. Cut up chicken, cheese, cold cuts, or hotdogs are good. If you have a puppy, chicken or cheese is less likely to upset their tummies. If treats upset your dog’s digestive tract, then use your dog’s kibble instead. Measure out your dog’s meals in the morning and during the day use the kibble instead of treats. There is no law anywhere in the universe that says your dog has to eat out of a bowl or eat a whole meal at one time.

IMPORTANT: put the inanimate object far enough away from your dog so that your dog is not reacting to it or move your dog far enough away so your dog is not reacting. It is critical that you start at a distance where the dog is not reacting.

Start tossing food towards the plastic bag, about 6-12” at a time. Watch your dog. If your dog starts to get nervous, back off a few feet and toss the treats only a few inches closer.

Do this for about 5 minutes at a time and always quit on a positive. If your dog is nervous, then back up the distance until your dog is comfortable and then stop. You can do one session per day or multiple sessions per day, but leave at least 5 minutes between sessions.

Periodically, give your dog a “break”. For example, if you started 20’ away from the object and have moved up to tossing food 10’ away, toss a few handfuls at 15’. Giving dogs a “break” helps the process go faster.

Once the dog is happily munching on the food that you are dropping right next to the plastic bag, start to move it a little bit with your feet, dropping food very quickly.

If your dog gives the plastic bag the hairy eyeball, move it a little bit slower.

Gradually increase the amount of movement, dropping food right next to the plastic bag until your dog doesn’t care how fast the bag is moving.

Crouch down and pick up the bag. A bag in the air is not the same as a bag on the ground to some dogs, so don’t move it, just hold it and drop food on the ground.

Gradually start to move the bag until you are flapping the bag like it was in a hurricane and your dog is eagerly scarfing up the food you’re dropping on the ground.

IMPORTANT: always be the tortoise, not the hare. The slower you go, the faster you will go. The smaller the steps are the more chance your dog has to be successful at each step. I know this feels like it will take forever, but if you move in very small steps, it could take less than 15 minutes, depending on how reactive the dog is.

When you are walking your dog and a garbage bag is flapping in the wind, to some dogs this is not the same as a garbage bag in your house. You may have to toss food at the garbage bag. You may have to toss food at several flapping garbage bags before your dog generalizes all flapping plastic bags.

Once your dog has generalized, you never have to throw food at flapping bags again.

The other good thing is that if your dog is skitty about a lot of things, the more things you throw food at, the faster your dog will stop being fearful of the inanimate object or noise and stop being afraid. It’s like a game – Mom throws food at things and then I know they are safe. You’ll find that often one handful of food is all it takes

2009-01-31T03:17:00.000-08:00

Dogs Who Push Other Dogs Away To Get Attention, Treats, etc.

In a multi-dog house, often one dog will push the other dogs away to get attention, treats, toys, etc. from the owners. Many people think the dog is jealous, but jealousy is a complex emotion and there is no proof that dogs are capable of complex emotions and some proof that they are not. Resolving the problem in the same way that you would resolve a similar problem with a jealous child is not effective.

What works is teaching the pushy dog that waiting is a much better deal for the dog than pushing. The dog can learn that everything good that happens to the dog happens because of his own behavior, not the behavior of the other dogs or his relationship to the other dogs.

To start, work individually with each dog. Have the dog sit, say the dog’s name and if the dog doesn’t move, give the dog the usual small, easily swallowed, treat. Repeat, repeat, repeat. If the dog pushes his head forward or lunges for the treat, tuck the treat into your hand, put your hands under your armpits and turn away from the dog. Wait at least 5 seconds before trying again. Never give the dog the treat if the dog moves her head. Most dogs will catch on quickly, but dogs who have learned that lunging gets them what they want will take longer because they have learn that their old habits no longer work and then figure out what works.

Once the ‘sit and don’t move’ behavior is solid with each dog, then pair 2 dogs. Have them sit about 2’ away from you and about 2’ away from each other. Say “Fido” and give Fido a treat. If Fifi moves, get the treat into Fido’s mouth and cue Fido to stay. Calmly lead Fifi away and gate her off, but make sure she can see Fido. Quickly go back to Fido, say Fido’s name and give Fido a treat. Say Fido again and give Fido another treat and repeat, repeat, repeat treating Fido while Fifi watches. DO NOT CORRECT Fifi in any way or you will “poison the cue” and it will take longer for Fifi to learn the right behavior.

It will not make Fifi jealous; it will teach Fifi what happens when she moves. Then bring Fifi back out and cue her to sit, again about 2’ away from you and 2’ away from Fido and say “Fido” and give Fido a treat. If Fifi moves, then calmly lead Fifi back behind the gate again. Repeat, repeat, repeat until Fifi doesn’t move when you give Fido a treat. Be patient. If Fifi doesn’t get it in about 5 minutes, then practice more with Fifi by herself before pairing her with Fido again.

As soon as Fifi doesn’t move, say “Fifi” and give Fifi 5-10 treats fed one at a time. If Fido moves, use your body to block him while you treat Fifi. Then calmly lead Fido out of the room and gate him off, and proceed just like you did when Fifi moved. Fifi has just started to learn that sitting still gets her 5-10 treats while moving gets her gated out and Fido gets all the treats. Practice, practice, practice. It only takes 2-5 minutes a day and one day when you get the treats out, you’ll have Fifi and Fido automatically sitting without a cue and calmly waiting for you to say a name to get a treat.

If you have more than two dogs, round robin all of them in pairs before you add a third dog. If you have 4 dogs, round robin all of them in a group of 3 before you add the 4th dog, etc.

You can do the same thing with for dogs that push for attention, instead of treats, pet and praise.

If you are throwing a toy and the other dog is getting greedy, put a lead on Fido and stand on it. Cue Fido to sit/stay. Throw the toy and say “Fifi, get it” or whatever cue you use. If you are not using a cue, use one. “Get it”, “fetch”, anything is ok, but use the dog’s name with a cue.

If Fido tries to run after it, the short lead that you are standing on will keep Fido from getting the toy. Cue Fido to sit/stay again and quickly throw the toy again, cueing Fifi to “get it”. Repeat, repeat, repeat until Fido is staying when you throw the toy. Then have quick game of tuggy with Fido! WOW! If I sit still I get to play!!!!!

Put the lead on Fifi and repeat the process.

teach a rottweiler to sit(dog training video)

2009-01-01T16:39:00.000-08:00

How to Teach Your Rottweiler to Sit -- powered by ExpertVillage.com

teach a rottweiler to lay down(dog training video)

2009-01-01T16:38:00.005-08:00

How to Teach Your Rottweiler to Lay Down -- powered by ExpertVillage.com

Teach Your Rottweiler to Roll Over(dog training video)

2009-01-01T16:38:00.003-08:00

Teach Your Rottweiler to Roll Over -- powered by ExpertVillage.com

Teach Your Rottweiler to Stay(dog training video)

2009-01-01T16:38:00.001-08:00

Teach Your Rottweiler to Stay -- powered by ExpertVillage.com

How to Train Your Rottweiler to Come When You Call(dog training video)

2009-01-01T16:37:00.002-08:00

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How to Train Your Rottweiler to Heel(dog training video)

2009-01-01T16:37:00.001-08:00

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strong wild dogs

2009-01-01T07:20:00.001-08:00

cute lovely puppies

2008-12-31T11:09:00.001-08:00

Weaving Though Legs

2008-12-29T12:01:00.000-08:00

How To Communicate with your dog

2008-12-29T11:48:00.000-08:00

javascript:void(0)

2008-12-29T11:44:00.000-08:00

How to Care for a Bulldog

teach a rottweiler to recognize his name(dog training video)

2008-12-29T11:28:00.000-08:00

Teach a Rottweiler to Recognize His Name -- powered by ExpertVillage.com

harmful foods

2008-12-28T12:04:00.000-08:00

daily activities that can affect your dog health

Sharing our food with our pets is something many of us have done. Who hasn't slipped the dog something to eat under the table or given him the scraps from our dinner plates. Below is a list of foods that we eat but which could be dangerous if eaten by your dog. Don't poison your dog by mistake.

Alcohol

No sharing your beer or gin and tonic with your dog. Alcohol is toxic to dogs. It can cause, vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, tremors and depression of the central nervous system and many other serious dog diseases . It can also cause death.

Avocado

Avocados can cause tummy pains and upsets including vomiting and diarrhea.

Chocolate

Your dog should never eat chocolate as it is very harmful for your dog health. Chocolate contains a stimulant diuretic called theobromine which affects the central nervous system and cardio vascular of the dog and many other serious dog diseases. If you believe your dog has eaten chocolate you must seek veterinary advice immediately as ingestion of chocolate can cause death. Cooking chocolate contains the most theobromine followed by dark chocolate, milk chocolate and white chocolate.

Take all precautions and ensure that you do not leave chocolate lying around. Dogs love the taste of it.

Symptoms of chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, restlessness, hyperactivity muscle tremors, increased urination and increased heart rate.

Coffee and Tea

Caffeine affects the central nervous system and the heart. Symptoms of caffeine poisoning can include vomiting, a racing heart and in severe cases, death.

Fat Trimmings from Ham and other meats

Never give your dog fat trimmings from meat and especially from ham as high fat consumption could lead to pancreatitis. Pancreatitis can range in severity from mild to life threatening and is an extremely painful condition. Turkey skin is also high in fat content.

Vets see an increase in pancreatitis over Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Grapes Raisins and Sultanas

Grapes and the dried variety of grapes including raisins and sultanas can cause kidney damage.

Macadamia Nuts

Macadamia nuts have been known to cause tremors & muscle weakness in dogs and can cause dog choking and death.

Milk and Dairy Products

It has been reported that as many as 50% of dogs are lactose intolerant. Many dog's digestive systems do not handle milk or dairy products well. The usual symptom is severe diarrhea.puppies can feed on lactose free formula milk that can be found in pet shops and pets supplies.

Onions and Garlic

Onions and garlic contain a substance called thiosulphate. Dogs can develop Haemolytic Anaemia which causes destruction of the red blood cells.

Potatoes which are green or the potato sprouts

These contain solanine glycosides which can cause vomiting, abdominal pain, bloody diarrhoea, nervous system stimulation, depression, trembling, paralysis & cardiac arrest.

Salty Foods

Avoid giving your dog too much salt. Too much is not good for us and it's not good for them and not very useful for dog health.

2008-12-28T11:30:00.000-08:00

general rules about dog feeding:

breeds of dogs are carnivores,Their digestive system,from the mouth through their intestines,is designed to cope with a meat diet.The dog teeth are adapted to tear food into swallowable sized to tear food chunks rather than to grind the food,and their stomachs can digest food in this state.breeds of dogs have probably evolved from animals that lived on a diet of other animals.Foods,whether for dogs or humans,have to supply energy,from which as well as being the mean of movement,the animal`s body derives heat,materials for growth and repair.For dogs,this involves a satisfactory mixture if the major nutrients-carbohydrates and proteins,in proportions similar to those required for a human which is very important for dog health and protecting him from dog diseases.Dogs foods may be divided into several broad categories.

-moist diets held the major part of the market,they are the tinned foods seen on every supermarket.
-Complete dry feeds are becoming increasingly popular,they needed minimal preparation,they can simply be poured into a dog bowl and given to the dog
-semi-moist diets are not intended to provide balanced diet on their own.They hold a small but significant place in the market,because they involve degree preparation before feeding.It is still fairly minimal,involving the adition of carbohydrate supplements as a mixer.The one thing to remember is that too much food mixing of modern foods can results in nutritional problems.
-special diets are development if the last ten years.Each dog should have his own bowl,although the food is often more interesting on the other dog`s plate.Dogs loves bones but vets don`t because of the risk of bowel stoppage or choking and are very risky for dog health.Never give to your dog a cheap bone.

picture from pet shop,pets supplies

dog feeding

2008-12-28T11:20:00.000-08:00

dog feeding:the easy way of having a healthy dog.

feeding is essential for dog breeds for building bones,muscles and
nervous system of the dog. dog training and fresh air are also
impotant for general growth of all breeds of dogs and protecting
him from serious dog diseases.

the only person qualified to give certain leads about dog feeding and supplementary vitamins is
the veterinarian.

the food system:the normal female dog milk differs than the cow milk as its density is lower so it
would be prefered to add an amount of egg yolk,a little amount of sugar and olive oil for dog
health.

here is the food system that will help you feed your dog perfectly for any breeds of dogs.

-from 1 to 2 month:

here the dog move from feeding on milk to normal feeding.this change is not less important than
getting the puppy away from his mother or the change in the training
manner,commands,owner,pet bed and finally dog vaccination and medication.

4 meals are prefered daily

-2 meals of milk and egg yolk,olive oil and powder milk.

-2 meals of vegetables,minsed meat and cereals.

generally each puppy eats about 300-400 gram daily ,1/3 of it is minsed meat.

-from 2 to 3 month:

the previous meal is replaced by full meal of vegetables, meat,rice....etc

200 gram meat,100 gram vegetables,3oo gram rice.

the daily meal is from 500-700 gram divided on 3 meals.

-from 4 to 5 month:

400 gram meat,300 gram vegetables,5oo gram rice.

the daily meal is from 1100-1300 gram divided on 3 meals.

-from 5 to 6 month:

600 gram meat,300 gram vegetables,600 gram rice.

the daily meal is from 1400-1600 gram divided on 2 meals.

-from 6 to 12 month:

700 gram meat,400 gram vegetables,700 gram rice.

the daily meal is from 1700-1900 gram divided on 2 meals.

-from 13 month to above:

the daily meal is from 2000-2500 gram in 1 meal

this instructions is just general guides about how you can feed your dog or puppy and you can change it according to any breeds of dogs are yours and your dog health.

dog training is very important for your dog health and protecting him from dog diseases.

tapeworms in dogs

2008-12-25T09:34:00.001-08:00

I need help with tapeworms in my dog?

Tapeworms are flat worms that are segmented. They consist of a head, neck, and then a number of segments. The head usually has suckers or muscular grooves that enable the tapeworm to attach itself to the animal’s intestine.

microscopic view of an egg packetEach tapeworm segment has its own reproductive organs. New segments are continually formed in the neck region of the worm while those at the end of the tapeworm are cast off as they mature. These mature segments contain large numbers of eggs which are often grouped into packets. The segments may often be seen near the anus of the dog or cat. These segments may move if recently passed, or if dried, they look like grains of uncooked rice or cucumber seeds. Tapeworm infections are usually diagnosed by finding these segments on the animal.

Tapeworms of dogs and cats all have life cycles that include an intermediate host. These hosts include fleas, fish, and domestic animals such as sheep and pigs. All of the adult forms of these tapeworms live in the cat’s or dog’s digestive system. It is interesting that tapeworms have no digestive systems themselves, but absorb nutrients through their skin.

The most common tapeworms that infect dogs and cats are:

* Dipylidium caninum
* Taenia species
* Echinococcus granulosus and E. multiocularis
* Diphyllobothrium latum
* Spirometra mansonoides

DIPYLIDIUM CANINUM (FLEA TAPEWORM, DOUBLE-PORED TAPEWORM, CUCUMBER SEED TAPEWORM, COMMON DOG TAPEWORM)

The adult form of D. caninum lives in dogs, cats, fox, and occasionally humans. It is found throughout the world. The intermediate host is the flea or louse.

What is the life cycle of D. caninum?

The adult worm, which can be up to 20 inches long, lives in the small intestine. The segments, full of eggs, are passed in the feces. While warm, the segments are active, but as they dry, they break open and liberate the eggs inside. Either an adult louse or a flea larva ingests the eggs. The egg develops into an immature form in the insect. When a dog or cat eats the insect, the immature form develops into an adult and the life cycle is completed.

How is an infection with D. caninum diagnosed?

The diagnosis of a D. caninum infection can be diagnosed by finding the moving segments, dried segments, and occasionally by seeing eggs in the feces if the segment had ruptured.

What are the signs of a D. caninum infection?

In heavy infections, we may notice abdominal discomfort or nervousness in the animal. The animal may vomit and sometimes have convulsions. It is thought that the convulsions are due to toxins produced by the tapeworm. The active segments around the anal area may cause an animal to lick or 'scoot' on the floor.

What signs of infection do we see in humans?

Usually it is children who become infected with this tapeworm by ingesting flea larvae or adult lice. In general, we rarely see symptoms in humans. In severe infections, abdominal discomfort, diarrhea, and pruritus (itching) in the perianal area may be present.

How do we treat and prevent infections with D. caninum in dogs and cats?

The most common treatment is praziquantel which is found in Droncit and Tradewinds Tapeworm Tabs. The dose is determined by number of tablets per body weight. It can not be used in pregnant animals. The drug epsiprantel (Cestex) is also effective, but cannot be used in puppies and kittens less than 7 weeks of age. For more information see the table on Treatments of Gastrointestinal Parasites at the end of this article.

The most important preventive measures are flea control and lice control. Numerous products are on the market which can be used for this purpose. It is recommended to not only treat the animals but also the environment in an attempt to kill as many flea larvae as possible.

TAENIA SPECIES

There are 9 major species of Taenia tapeworms in North America, 7 of which have dogs or cats as the definitive hosts (animals which harbor the adult form of the parasite).

Latin Name Common Name Definitive Host Intermediate Host
T. saginata Unarmed tapeworm; beef tapeworm Man Cattle
T. solium Armed tapeworm; pork bladderworm Man Pig
T. hydatigena Thin-necked bladderworm Dog, Bear Sheep, goat, cattle, pig, deer
T. krabbei Dog Reindeer
T. multiceps

(Also known as Multiceps multiceps)

Dog
Sheep
T. ovis Dog Sheep, goat
T. pisiformis Dog Rabbit, rodent
T. serialis

(Also known as Multiceps serialis)
Bladderworm Dog Rabbit, hare
T. taeniaeformis Feline tapeworm Cat Rodent

Are the life cycles of the different Taenia species similar?

Yes. The gravid segments of the worm pass out with the feces of the dog or cat. Often eggs are released from the segments before they are passed. The intermediate host ingests the eggs which are immediately infective. In the intermediate host, the embryo is released in the small intestine and the immature form migrates through the body to various organs, depending on the species of Taenia. The immature form develops a small fluid filled sac, called a bladder, which surrounds it and provides nourishment. When the 'bladder' is ingested by the definitive host, the head of the tapeworm is released, attaches itself to the intestinal wall, grows, and segments.

Dogs and cats may remain infected for a year or more, and the tapeworms can grow to be over 6 feet long.

What are the signs and symptoms of Taenia infection?

Even in severe infections, there is little evidence of infection other than pruritus around the anal area and finding the segments attached to the animal's fur. Rarely, intestinal obstruction may occur. In general, the intermediate host shows many more signs of illness than the definitive host.

How is an infection with Taenia species diagnosed?

Because the eggs are often released from the segments before the segments pass out through the feces, the main method of diagnosis is through microscopic fecal examination. All Taenia eggs look alike and are identical to those of Echinococcus.

How is a Taenia infection treated and prevented?

Taenia spp. are more susceptible to antihelmintics than other tapeworms. Effective treatments include Drontal Plus and Cestex. For more information see the table on Treatments of Gastrointestinal Parasites at the end of this article.

Prevention methods must be based on prohibiting dogs and cats from eating raw meat or offal, and preying on wild animals. The immature forms in the intermediate hosts are killed by freezing or cooking. Rodent control is important.

ECHINOCOCCUS GRANULOSUS, E. MULTIOCULARIS (HYDATID TAPEWORM)

Dogs and wild canids serve as the definitive hosts of Echinococcus granulosus. Herbivores such as sheep are the intermediate hosts. Dogs, cats, and fox are definitive hosts for E. multiocularis, and voles, lemmings, and shrews serve as the intermediate hosts. Humans can also serve as intermediate hosts for both species of Echinococcus. The infection in humans causes a severe, sometimes fatal disease called 'hydatid disease' or echinococcosis.

Both of these tapeworms are found in limited areas in North America. E. granulosus is more common in geographical areas with large numbers of sheep, but is still quite rare. Originally, E. multiocularis was only found in the northern states; more recently it has been found as far south as Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio.

What is the life cycle of Echinococcus tapeworms?

The intermediate host ingests the Echinococcus eggs which are passed in the feces of the definitive host. The eggs hatch and the immature forms penetrate the intestinal wall of the intermediate host and migrate to various organs, usually the lungs and liver. Large cysts, 2-5 inches in diameter, develop and contain thousands of infective forms, called 'hydatid sand.'

When the cysts are ingested by a definitive host, each of the infective forms contained in the cyst can develop into an adult tapeworm which are usually less than 7 mm long. The adult worms attach themselves to the small intestine and may live there up to two years.

What are the signs of Echinococcus infections in animals?

As with Taenia tapeworms, the definitive hosts rarely show signs of disease unless the tapeworms are present in high numbers. Usually, the intermediate hosts do not show signs of infection either.

How is infection with Echinococcus diagnosed, treated, and controlled in dogs and cats?

Eggs of this tapeworm are not uniformly passed in the stool. If eggs are found, it is virtually impossible to distinguish them from the eggs of Taenia, which is a much more common tapeworm.

Praziquantel at a dose of 5 mg/kg is the treatment of choice in dogs and cats infected with Echinococcus. For more information see the table on Treatments of Gastrointestinal Parasites at the end of this article.

Control of Echinococcus is centered around preventing dogs and cats from eating parts or all of the intermediate hosts. Animals should not be fed offal or uncooked meat. Rodent populations should be controlled.

How do humans become infected with Echinococcus?

Humans become accidentally infected by ingesting food items contaminated with the eggs of Echinococcus. This can occur through eating contaminated vegetation such as nuts, berries, and herbs. Hands could become contaminated by gardening or otherwise working in soil contaminated with dog, cat, fox, or other canid feces. Be sure to wash all fruits and vegetables and wash hands thoroughly with soap and water as well.

Signs of infection may not be evident until years after ingestion of the eggs.

What are the signs of disease in humans infected with Echinococcus?

Humans, unlike animals, often show signs of infection with Echinococcus, and the signs vary depending on the organs infected. Parasitic tumors may develop in the brain, heart, lungs, and liver. If these cystic tumors in a human would rupture, anaphylactic shock may occur. Surgery is often the treatment of choice in humans infected with Echinococcus. Newer drug therapies such as albendazole and albendazole with praziquantel are often used in conjunction with surgery, or alone, if surgery is not an option.

The diagnosis of hydatid disease in humans is often made through sophisticated testing using CAT scans and MRI. Serologic tests are also available.

DIPHYLLOBOTHRIUM LATUM (BROAD FISH TAPEWORM)

As with other tapeworms, D. latum lives in the small intestines of its definitive hosts which include dogs, cats, fox, bear, other fish-eating mammals, and man. It is found in the Great Lakes area, in some southern Gulf areas, and in the Arctic. Unlike other tapeworms already discussed, it has two intermediate hosts.

What is the life cycle of D. latum?

The adult worms, which can reach the length of ten meters, are found in the small intestine of the definitive host. Instead of passing segments filled with eggs, D. latum eggs are discharged through a small 'uterine pore' in each segment. Segments which have released all their eggs are often shed in chains instead of individually.

After the eggs are passed, they need to remain in water for 8 days before they are infective to the first intermediate hosts which are copepods, a type of freshwater crustacean. The D. latum embryos develop into second stage larvae inside the copepods. One copepod can contain large numbers of these second stage larvae.

The copepods are often eaten by minnows in which third stage D. latum larvae develop. Often larger fish, such as perch, walleye, trout, and pike, will eat the minnows and the third stage larvae will move into the larger fish’s tissues. A definitive host becomes infected by eating the infected minnows or larger fish.

Do pets and humans infected with D. latum show any signs of disease?

Even though the adult tapeworm can grow very large, there are minimal signs of infection in dogs and cats.

The adult tapeworm can live for up to 20 years in people. In humans, D. latum absorbs a large amount of Vitamin B12 from the intestinal contents. This results in a Vitamin B12 deficiency in some humans. Vitamin B12 is necessary for the proper production of red blood cells, and a deficiency in the vitamin can result in the development of pernicious anemia.

Humans with severe infestation may also have diarrhea, obstructions of the intestine and bile ducts, and sometimes show toxic symptoms.

How is an infection with D. latum diagnosed?

Diagnosis of a infection with the broad fish tapeworm is generally made through finding the eggs in the feces. Care must be taken to differentiate the eggs from another tapeworm called Spirometra and a lung fluke, Paragonimus kellicotti.

What is the treatment for D. latum infection and what prevention measures can be used?

Praziquantel is often the treatment of choice for broad fish tapeworm infections in dogs and cats. Although not FDA approved for this use in dogs and cats, it is a common and accepted practice to use the medication for this purpose. Recommended dosages vary. Humans are treated with praziquantel or niclosamide.

Prevention of D. latum infections can be accomplished by not allowing pets access to raw or undercooked fish.

SPIROMETRA MANSONOIDES

S. mansonoides more commonly infects cats and bobcats, but can also infect dogs and raccoons. Its life cycle and eggs are very similar to Diphyllobothrium. It is found in the southern United States in Florida and along the Gulf Coast.

What is the life cycle of S. mansonoides?

The adult worms, which are around 25 cm in length, are found in the small intestine of the definitive host. As with D. latum, eggs are discharged through a small 'uterine pore' in each segment.

After the eggs are passed, and become infective, they are eaten by the first intermediate hosts which are copepods, a type of freshwater crustacean. The S. mansonoides embryos develop into second stage larvae inside the copepods.

The copepods are eaten by birds, snakes, reptiles, amphibians, or rodents. The third stage S. mansonoides larvae develop in these second intermediate hosts. Definitive hosts become infected by eating the infected snakes, rodents, or other second intermediate host.

Do animals infected with S. mansonoides show signs of disease?

Usually infections of pet animals with S. mansonoides are asymptomatic. In more severe cases, cats may have weight loss, irritability, and changes in appetite.

How is an infection with S. mansonoides diagnosed?

Diagnosis of an infection with S. mansonoides is generally made through finding the eggs in the feces. Care must be taken to differentiate the eggs from D. latum the lung fluke, Paragonimus kellicotti.

How are S. mansonoides infections treated and prevented in pets?

Treatment for S. mansonoides infections is the same as that for D. latum, praziquantel. Although not FDA approved for use in dogs and cats for the treatment of S. mansonoides infections, it is a common and accepted practice to use the medication for this purpose.

The only way a S. mansonoides infection can be prevented in animals is by not allowing them to scavenge or prey on the second intermediate hosts (birds, snakes, reptiles, amphibians, or rodents).

Can humans become infected with S. mansonoides?

Rarely, humans have become infected with the second stage larvae by inadvertently eating the copepods. When this occurs, the second stage larvae migrate to muscles and other tissues and develop into third stage larvae just as they would in a snake or rodent. In addition, rarely in humans who have ingested infected reptiles or birds, the third stage larvae do not develop into adults in the intestine, but travel through the intestine and into the tissues. The human condition of having third stage larvae in muscle and subcutaneous tissues is called 'sparganosis.' Symptoms include pruritus (itching), urticaria (hives), and pain at the site of the nodules that develop. Treatment is usually by surgical removal of the nodules containing the third stage larvae. A similar condition may also occur in dogs.

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Pet Shop Puppies: Buying a Puppy From a Pet Store

2008-12-25T00:19:00.000-08:00

Pet Shop Puppies: Buying a Puppy From a Pet Store

Every pet shop that sells puppies will assure you, solemnly, that their puppies are different. Their puppies don't come from puppy mills, but from fine local breeders. Pillars of the community, in fact.

The reality is that responsible breeders will never place one of their puppies in a pet shop or anywhere else for resale or consignment. Never, ever, ever. Any breeder who has placed their puppy in a pet shop to be sold has immediately disqualified himself as a responsible breeder.

WHY?

Because, as commercial establishments, pet shops are required to sell a puppy to anyone who can pay. Legally, they are not allowed to "screen" buyers for suitability. Responsible breeders wouldn't be able to sleep at night wondering which of their puppies might have gone to an unsuitable home and was not being properly cared for.

But my pet shop says...

The pet shop industry has manuals and trade journals that teach pet shop owners and employees exactly what to say to persuade you to buy. Their marketing ploys include:

"We buy only from local breeders.": What difference does this make? Whether a breeder is local or lives in Timbuktu, whether he has produced only one litter or many -- if he has placed his puppies in a pet shop, his breeding practices are irresponsible. Geographical location makes no difference at all.

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"We buy only from USDA-licensed breeders."

USDA stands for the United States Department of Agriculture. Their business is supposed to be livestock. They know little or nothing about dogs. As long as a breeder's paperwork is in order, the facilities are disinfected, cages are a minimum size, and no infectious diseases such as distemper are immediately obvious, the kennel passes.

The USDA has not the slightest interest in...

whether the breeder knows anything about his breed
whether the dogs used for breeding look like their breed
whether the dogs used for breeding act like their breed
whether the dogs used for breeding are free of genetic health problems such as hip dysplasia, eye diseases, or heart defects.

USDA Breeder is a label to stay away from. The only reason someone would apply for this license is to crank out lots of puppies.

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"Health guaranteed!"

This "reassuring" platitude is how pet shops and irresponsible breeders seek to get around the expenses of genetic testing.

They offer to replace defective puppies rather than avoiding them in the first place by requiring their "wonderful" breeders to do genetic health tests on any parent dog used for breeding.

Let's look at it from the PUPPY'S point of view. Guarantees don't help a puppy at all. You get your money back, while the puppy still has to live with the genetic health problem that could have been avoided -- if his breeder had been seeking to produce healthy lives rather than seeking to keep his expenses down by avoiding genetic health testing.

We're talking about quality of life here. Don't support any breeder or pet shop who cares so little about the future life of their puppies that they do not require genetic health testing of the parents, in breeds where such health problems are virtually an epidemic.

Pet shops aren't too worried about their "guarantees", by the way. They don't have to honor many of them because most genetic health problems don't show up for six months or a year or two years. Either the guarantee has expired by then, or most people won't return a dog they've had for that long.

Not just HEALTH problems

Obedience instructors and canine behavioral consultants will be happy to tell you about the temperament and behavior problems that develop in many pet shop puppies as they grow up.

Most pet shop puppies start out playful and friendly, but as they mature, their genes begin to assert themselves. If their parents or grandparents had shy or aggressive or hyperactive temperaments, those genes will show up during adolescence and adulthood.

Many pet shop puppies are nippy. Some were removed from their mother before 7 weeks of age, a critical period of time where she teaches them "bite inhibition." Some have learned to nip from interacting with so many potential owners wandering through the pet shop, including kids who tug and play roughly. Most of these potential owners thought the nipping was cute, didn't correct the puppy for it, and so the habit becomes entrenched.

Finally, raised in a small cage in which they're encouraged to eliminate freely, pet shop puppies are notoriously difficult to housebreak.

The major reason not to buy -- supporting the industry

You may wish to "rescue" a pet shop puppy. That's completely understandable. We all feel sorry for them.

But your good intentions will backfire, because you are feeding the industry by rewarding it with money.

You've emptied one cage, yes -- which creates demand for yet another litter to be produced to fill that cage. Even if you're very, very lucky, and your one individual puppy turns out okay, a large percentage of the others will not -- and YOU provided the incentive for them to be born by buying the one who came before them.

So what seems like a simple, isolated purchase actually contributes to:

The misery of adult females who spend their lives in a cage, being bred again and again to provide puppies that you and others can buy

The misery of these future puppies born with health and temperament problems

The misery of future families who buy these puppies and then try to cope with the health and temperament problems

The misery of animal rescue groups trying to deal with the flood of pet shop puppies dumped on their doorstep because families gave up on the health and temperament problems

I hope it's clear that when you buy one of those cute puppies in the pet shop window, you buy more than the puppy. You buy the budding physical and behavioral problems created by the bad genes passed on by untested parents whom you never get to see and evaluate.

Worse than that, you buy into a profit-hungry industry that is hurting innocent animals. Simply out of good conscience, a pet shop should not be anyone's choice as a source for a puppy.

AKC Registered Puppies: Are "AKC Papers" Important?

2008-12-25T00:17:00.000-08:00

AKC Registered Puppies:
Are "AKC Papers" Important?

At some point, if you're talking to an unknowledgeable breeder or a proud new (unknowledgeable) owner, you might hear something like this: "This puppy even comes with AKC papers and a pedigree!!"

They expect you to respond with an awed whistle.
Here's a better response: "O yay."

"But I thought AKC registration papers--"

You thought AKC registration meant good quality. Nope.

The truth is...

The AKC will register any puppy whose parents are already registered.

The AKC registered those parents because their parents were already registered.

And the AKC registered their parents because...

You get the idea.

Registration is a mechanical process, a chain of numbers.

You send the AKC money.

If the owners of your puppy's parents and grandparents were all good doobies who kept the chain intact by sending in their own money, the AKC will insert your puppy's name into their database, too.

They will send you a piece of paper with a number on it. Voila...she's registered.

"But what about a pedigree? Doesn't that mean something?"

Send more money, and the AKC will access their database again. It will spit out the names of your puppy's parents, grandparents, great-grandparents, as many generations as you're willing to pay for. Voila -- her pedigree.

That's all a pedigree is -- a list of names.

Registration papers and pedigrees don't tell you a single thing about a dog other than its place in the chain of names.

To get registration papers or a pedigree, a dog doesn't have to meet any qualifications of health, temperament, behavior, or sound structure.

None whatsoever. A dog can be purple, sickly, aggressive, obese, ears pointing every which way -- and the AKC will give them the same kind of registration number they give to the Best of Breed winner at the Westminster Kennel Club show.

"Good grief! And here I thought AKC registered meant good!"

Don't be fooled. Registration papers don't suggest quality in a dog any more than they suggest quality in a car. Does buying a "registered" car mean it won't be a clunker? Of course not!

In fact, registration papers suggest quality in cars more than in dogs, because in most states a car can only be registered if it has passed a smog check or a mechanical safety check. The AKC registers dogs with no health or safety checks at all.

Every year, thousands of AKC registered litters are produced. The majority of them are of poor quality -- because good quality would require the breeder to have some knowledge of genetics and to spend money on genetic health testing -- and most people who have litters know nothing about this and wouldn't be bothered doing it even if they did know.

Hopefully you will never again
make the mistake of thinking that the
existence of AKC papers or a pedigree
has anything whatsoever to do
with a dog's quality.

"But papers at least guarantee that a dog is purebred, right?"

Boy, I'm really beginning to feel like the bearer of bad news!

Being purebred has nothing to do with registration papers. Being purebred simply means that a puppy and all of his ancestors going back many generations have the same set of fixed genes.

Fixed genes can be counted on to reproduce traits such as size, coat, color, etc. Having fixed genes is what makes a dog purebred. The presence or absence of registration papers has no effect whatsoever on genes.

In fact, if a dog DOESN'T have those fixed genes, he isn't purebred -- even he HAS registration papers!

What???

It's true. A puppy can have registration papers that are false. Most registries, such as the AKC, operate on the honor system. They simply take the breeder's word for it that "King" and "Queen" were really the parents of "Solomon."

But scams happen all the time. Let's say someone has a purebred female Boxer and a purebred male Boxer. Both have registration papers. Unfortunately, the female is accidentally bred by the mixed breed male down the street. When the litter arrives, a dishonest person could fill out the litter registration paperwork -- claiming that his BOXER was the father. The AKC will dutifully send him a bunch of individual registration papers for each puppy, which he will happily pass along to the new owners of each puppy. No one will be the wiser until the puppies grow up and start to look suspiciously non-Boxerish.

Fortunately, the AKC has a new DNA testing program where participating breeders submit DNA samples of parents and puppies, which conclusively proves parentage. If you want to be sure of who your puppy's parents really are, look for breeders who participate in this program.

Always remember that GENES make a dog purebred. The presence or absence of registration papers doesn't change the genes inside a dog. He can be purebred without having papers -- and sadly, he can have papers without really being purebred.

"So are papers and pedigrees worth anything at all?"

In the hands of responsible, knowledgeable breeders, oh, yes.

It is extremely important for breeders to check pedigrees to be sure they're not breeding together closely-related dogs. And before they breed two dogs together, responsible breeders check out the temperament, health, and physical build of as many ancestors on the pedigree as they can track down. This information is crucial in deciding how to match up breeding partners.

"Should I buy a purebred puppy without a pedigree?"

I wouldn't. How will you find out whether your puppy's parents and grandparents were too closely related? Show breeders who have not kept up on canine genetics are still not aware of how unwise it is to breed together closely-related dogs. You'll see a lot of inbred and "linebred" puppies offered by show breeders.

And people who just stuck their male and female together without doing any research on their background may have unwittingly bred together closely-related dogs.

When there are good breeders who care enough to do research before breeding, why reward a lazy person who decides it's not important because "they're just pets?"

You have as much right to a well-bred, genetically healthy puppy as anyone else. Rewarding an ignorant breeder with money only encourages him to do the same thing again.

So you want papers and a pedigree with a purebred puppy --
not because their presence indicates a high-quality dog,
but because their ABSENCE indicates an unknowledgable breeder.

How to Choose a Good Puppy

2008-12-25T00:16:00.001-08:00

How to Choose a Good Puppy

Don't let the PUPPY choose YOU.

You may have been advised by well-meaning friends to let a puppy choose YOU, i.e. the one who comes to you first or seems to like you the most. This usually results in all the bold and pushy puppies (who are often difficult to raise) being taken first, while the gentle puppies (who usually make calmer pets) wait politely in the background.

Most families make a mistake by letting the most brash, forceful puppies choose them. Sure, these little dynamos are a blast to play with for an hour at the breeder's. But they can drive you crazy if you have to live with them 24 hours a day.

A puppy can love you without being suited to you -- and a puppy can be perfectly suited to you without launching himself immediately into your lap. Give each puppy a fair evaluation.

Evaluate the litter as a whole

Your first look should be at the litter as a group. If there are four puppies and three of them are running away or staying at arm's length or woofing suspiciously at you, I'm sorry to say your visit is over.

No, you shouldn't buy the fourth puppy. The chances are too great that shyness or distrustfulness is in his genes, too, and simply hasn't caught up to him yet.

And don't let a breeder laugh off his puppies' timidity with assurances of, "Oh, they just haven't been handled much." Lack of socialization means laziness or ignorance on the part of the breeder. You do not want a puppy from a lazy or ignorant breeder. If he can't even socialize properly, who knows what else he screwed up?

Puppies who tuck their tails or shrink away from you are not safe choices as pets. Don't try to convince yourself that you can "bring them out of their shell." You don't know what's going on in these puppies' genes. Shy puppies usually become shy dogs who may snap defensively when startled.

If the litter isn't running away, what should they be doing? Normal puppies are friendly, curious, trusting. They mill around your feet, tug at your shoelaces, crawl into your lap, nibble on your fingers.

After a while, they may stop playing with you and begin wrestling with one another. You can tell a lot about the individual puppies by the way they interact with their littermates.

Which ones are strong, outgoing, bossy, noisy?
Which ones are quiet, submissive, gentle?
Which ones grab all the toys and win the tugs-of-war?
Which ones seem delicate or picked on?

Most families do best with a pup who is neither boss of the litter nor lowest on the totem pole. Look for good-natured, middle-of-the-road pups who don't growl or grab or bite, but who do wag their tails and hold their own.

Clap your hands gently, snap your fingers, jingle your car keys, shuffle your feet, whistle softly, cluck your tongue.

Which pups are interested?
Which ones come over to investigate?
Which ones are apprehensive?

You want an alert and confident puppy. A nervous puppy who is afraid of sudden sounds or quick movements will not do well in a busy household. A puppy who is completely oblivious may be too dull, too independent, or unhealthy.

Evaluate individual puppies

Next, ask the breeder if you can see each puppy who is available for sale, individually. Ask him to remove the other pups.

You want to see how each puppy reacts when he is away from his littermates. Sometimes a puppy who seems bold when his friends are "backing him up" will become uncertain or anxious on his own. Or sometimes an energetic puppy will calm down when not being egged on by the others; given your undivided attention, he may become quite the lap-sitter.

What is his general expression and body language?

Does he keep his tail up or mostly down?

Is his tail wagging, even hesitantly?

When you talk to him, does he look at your face?

Does he cock his head and listen to you?

Male Dogs versus Female Dogs

2008-12-25T00:14:00.001-08:00

Male Dogs versus Female Dogs

Let's look at male dogs first

SPEAKING GENERALLY about male dogs...

Male dogs tend to be more stable in mood than female dogs -- less prone to emotional swings.

Some male dogs are bolder and more aggressive than females, while other males are "goofy" and "klutzy" -- "big softies" and "good ol' boys".

Male dogs have genitals that are easy to see. When you roll them over to rub their belly, there's -- how shall I say this? -- "something in the way". Some owners feel self-conscious about that. Male dogs may also become aroused and/or lick their private parts, and again, some owners find this embarrassing, especially if Grandma happens to be visiting.

There are many more things about male dogs
you should know, but.....

Right now let's look at female dogs

SPEAKING GENERALLY about female dogs...

Females are more prone to mood swings and emotional theatrics. Females can be very sweet and loving when they're happy -- but grumpy if something isn't to their liking. Female dogs are experts at The Dirty Look and The Sulk.

Female dogs are less likely than males to be openly defiant or to engage in blunt power struggles with you -- but they are opinionated and often manipulative.

Female dogs squat to urinate, so they pee more neatly and unobtrusively than male dogs. Some dominant females, however, DO make a credible attempt to lift their leg -- these female dogs will often mark territory much like a male. If you own multiple dogs, a dominant female may scout around sniffing for places where the other dogs have peed, so she can "cover" it with her own scent.

Adopting a Dog From the Animal Shelter

2008-12-25T00:13:00.000-08:00

Adopting a Dog From the Animal Shelter

Each evening, you pass the animal shelter on your way home from work. Their sign pleads, "Save a life. Adopt one of our dogs!"

Should you consider adopting a dog from the animal shelter?

An important consideration for many prospective owners is money. Shelter dogs cost $50 to $100, a far cry from the $400 to $1500 asked by breeders.

But what kind of dog will you be getting for fifty bucks?

Maybe the best dog in the world.

Maybe the worst dog in the world.

The biggest disadvantage of animal shelters and humane societies is the unpredictability of what you'll find inside on any given day.

Why dogs are dropped off at the animal shelter

Some dogs at the shelter DO have behavior problems.

"He's not housebroken."

"He barks too much."

"He digs holes in our garden."

"He chews things up when we leave him alone."

"He keeps climbing over the fence."

"He's not good with our cats."

"He's not good with our other dogs."

"He's not good with our kids."

"He bit me."

Many owners CAUSED their dog's behavior problems by not being home enough, by leaving their dog outdoors, by not providing enough exercise, or by not assuming the leadership role and teaching their dog how to be a good follower. If a new owner provides these things, many "problem" dogs change their tune very quickly and make great companions.

Some dogs are there because they got lost and were never reclaimed.

Some dogs are there because they developed a health problem that their owner didn't want to (or couldn't afford to) deal with. They might need a special diet, or insulin shots, or daily pills, or surgery to fix something.

Some dogs are there because...

"He's too big. We didn't know he would get so big."

"He sheds too much."

"Our landlord says no dogs."

"My child is allergic to him."

"Our other dog doesn't like him."

"He needs too much exercise."

"I'm getting a full time job."

"We have a new baby. I don't have time for a dog."

"I'm getting married and my new spouse doesn't like dogs."

And some dogs are there simply because they committed the cardinal sin of growing old. They can't get around so well anymore, they can't see or hear so well, or they're just "no fun" anymore. Sad, isn't it? Especially when older dogs can be so calm, peaceful, and well-behaved, which may be exactly what you're looking for!

The dog of your dreams could be sitting in there right now, hoping someone will give him a chance to prove what a wonderful companion he is.

But you need to keep your eyes open -- not just your heart!

Spaying and Neutering: Pros and Cons

2008-12-25T00:09:00.000-08:00

Spaying and Neutering: Pros and Cons

Spaying prevents future health problems.

Spaying offers 100% protection against uterine infections. Pyometra and endometritis are common in unspayed females, and these infections can strike quickly and kill your dog.

Spaying offers 100% protection against false pregnancy. Some unspayed females react to their heat period by acting as if they've been bred. Their belly actually gets larger and they may produce milk. It sounds harmless, but the hormonal changes associated with false pregnancy are very stressful and can leave your female more susceptible to illness and infection.

Spaying offers partial protection against breast cancer. Unspayed females have a 1-in-4 chance of developing a breast tumor at some point in their lives. In spayed females, the chances drop to 1-in-15.

Spaying prevents all the risks of pregnancy. Giving birth can endanger your dog's life.

Spaying prevents all the nuisances and inconveniences of heat periods.

Heat periods can be messy and embarrassing. During a heat period, the genitals swell. She will have a bloody discharge, which can stain her coat and your carpets and furniture. She may spend a lot of time licking her private parts. She may flirt shamelessly with other dogs (even other females), presenting her rump and encouraging other dogs to mount her. She may mount other dogs herself or hump pillows or stuffed toys.

Heat periods require vigilant confinement. If your dog is in heat, you can?t leave her alone in the yard for a single minute. A female in heat can be smelled from a long distance away and fences mean nothing to a lust-crazed male. Indeed, you may have to curtail walks altogether.

Heat periods can upset your plans. Vacations and trips may have to wait, since there are too many opportunities for your dog to escape. Friends and relatives may not appreciate a visit when your dog has a discharge or will leave tempting scents on their doorstep. And leaving an unspayed female with a pet sitter or boarding kennel is extremely risky because of the extreme requirements for vigilance.

In many communities, license fees are lower for spayed females.

Good reasons to neuter your male dog

You can call it castration or neutering. Both terms refer to the removal of the testicles so your male can't breed or sire puppies. (Most people tend to say neutering because it doesn't sound so graphic!)

Neutering helps prevent behavior problems.

Marking. Unneutered males tend to spray their urine on vertical objects so that other males can smell it -- it's their way of marking their territory. Marking can become an obsession with some unneutered males, who will tow you toward every fire hydrant and telephone pole. Some unneutered males will even mark inside your house.

Fighting. Unneutered males are more likely to pick fights with other unneutered males. That means your unneutered male may become the aggressor -- or the victim of an aggressor.

Sexual arousal. The signs of sexual arousal can be embarrassing in mixed company. Unneutered males often lick their genitals and hump other dogs, pillows, stuffed animals, and sometimes people's legs or ankles.

Distractibility. The eyeballs of an unneutered male tend to rove up and down the street looking for females or potential male rivals -- rather than focusing on YOU.

Distress around females in heat. Females in heat give off chemical pheromones that can be scented from a mile away and unneutered males can become extremely agitated -- whining, drooling, pacing, sometimes escaping their house or yard.

Dominance. Unneutered males are more likely to challenge your rules and commands, because their increased testosterone goads them into resisting authority.

Neutering helps prevent health problems.

Neutering offers 100% protection against testicular tumors and partial protection against prostate disease and perianal tumors, both of which are stimulated by testosterone.

If a male dog has retained one or both testicles up inside his body, neutering is essential because a retained testicle is very likely to develop a tumor unless removed.

In many communities, license fees are lower for neutered males.

Disadvantages of spaying and neutering

Some owners fear obesity as a disadvantage of spaying or neutering, but that isn't true. Spayed and neutered dogs simply don't require as much food because their hormonal make-up has been changed and their metabolism is lower. So just keep an eye on your dog's shape as you feed and provide plenty of physical exercise. Then your dog will not become fat.

Spayed and neutered dogs can't be shown in conformation classes at dog shows, but I don't consider this a disadvantage because I don't think much of those classes. If you're really interested in competing in canine activities, rest assured that you CAN show your spayed or neutered dog in meaningful canine activities such as obedience, agility, tracking, herding, field trials, and so on.

Spaying and neutering costs money. There's no getting around this disadvantage. The surgery can cost two or three hundred dollars when the safest anesthetic is used and all possible safety precautions taken. (I do NOT recommend using low-cost spay/neuter clinics, which must cut corners in order to provide affordable prices.)

Spaying and neutering requires general anesthesia, which is always a risk.

But you can minimize this risk if you know how to have your dog spayed or neutered SAFELY.

Socializing Your Puppy or Adult Dog

2008-12-25T00:07:00.002-08:00

Socializing Your Puppy or Adult Dog

How does your dog react to strangers?

Some dogs love everybody. My dog Buffy "never met a stranger", i.e. she treats everyone like a long-lost friend.

Some dogs are fine with their own family (and perhaps a few family friends), but aren't so keen on strangers.

Some dogs are fine with people of one sex -- but not the other sex.

Some dogs are fine with adults -- but not with children. (A few dogs are the opposite -- they're fond of kids, but wary of adults.)

Some dogs are suspicious of certain physical features. For example, a person wearing a hat, or dark sunglasses, or a beard, or a uniform. A few dogs are so observant that they may even notice a person's skin color and react suspiciously to it if it's not what they're used to.

Some dogs dislike ALL strangers.

And some dogs basically ignore strangers -- their motto seems to be: "Live and let live."

How does your dog react to other dogs?

Some dogs are friendly with virtually every other dog.

Some dogs are good with other dogs they know well -- but not with strange dogs.

Some dogs are good with dogs of the opposite sex -- but not the same sex.

Some dogs are tolerant with puppies -- but not with other adult dogs.

Some dogs are fussy about the SIZE of the other dog. They may dislike dogs larger than themselves. Or they may dislike dogs smaller than themselves.

Some dogs are fussy about the BREED of the other dog. They may be fine with their own breed, but dislike other breeds. Or they may be fine with other breeds, but not with their own!

Some dogs are aggressive or timid with virtually every other dog.

And some dogs just ignore other dogs.

Your dog's attitude toward people and other dogs comes from...

His breed

In some breeds, the GENES for temperament traits such as friendliness, suspiciousness, aggression, etc. are so strong and so prevalent throughout the breed that it is highly likely that your dog will inherit them.

For example, most Golden Retrievers inherit genes for friendliness toward everyone. Most Chihuahuas inherit genes for suspiciousness toward strangers and other dogs. Most Pit Bull Terriers inherit genes for aggression toward other dogs. Most Borzois inherit chasing instincts toward smaller dogs.

His parents

Whatever his breed, if your dog's parents had a particular attitude toward people and other dogs, your dog will inherit THEIR genes and will probably also mimic THEIR behavior. So if your dog's breed is usually friendly, but his particular parents were suspicious, he may end up suspicious. If his breed is usually suspicious, but his particular parents was friendly, he may end up friendly.

How long he was left with his mother and siblings

If removed before seven weeks old, a puppy will not learn essential canine social signals such as bite inhibition, which are taught by his mother and siblings during the first seven weeks of life.

Puppies brought home before seven weeks old very often end up mouthy and nippy, resistant to being handled, or aggressive or fearful with other dogs.

On the other hand, if a puppy lives with his mother or siblings for too LONG (more than 12 weeks), his position in the "pecking order" may be so established that he will always be inclined to act dominant (if he was at the top) or submissive (if he was at the bottom) toward people or other dogs.

His early experiences

Obviously, if your dog who was frightened by another person or dog early in his life, or if he acted inappropriately toward other people or dogs during his early life and wasn't corrected properly for this inappropriate behavior, you can expect him to be aggressive or fearful.

How well you socialize him

Socializing means getting your dog used to people, other dogs, and the big wide world in general.

Puppy socialization has the most dramatic effect on how your dog turns out. You must get your puppy out into the world between 7 weeks old and 6 months old.

Adolescent socialization is also critical. Adolescence begins between 6 and 9 months old, and ends between 1 and 3 years old. Larger breeds have the longer adolescent periods. Just as in people, adolescence in dogs can be an awkward time of change and upheaval. A teenage dog's attitude toward strangers and other dogs may change from week to week, even from day to day.

Adult socialization may not be able to change your dog's attitude toward people and other dogs, but it can control his behavior so that he doesn't ACT aggressive or afraid.

The moral is this: You can't change your dog's breed. You can't change the genes he inherited from his parents. You can't put him back with his mother and siblings for that critical seven week period. You can't undo negative experiences that occurred before you got him.

What you CAN do is socialize him properly, now that you have him.

Puppy Training Schedule: What to Teach Puppies, and When

2008-12-25T00:07:00.001-08:00

At 2-3 months old, your puppy should begin learning...

His daily routine. Where his food and water dishes are located. What times of day he will eat (typically morning, early afternoon, and evening). Where his bed is. What time he goes to bed. What time he gets up. Where he goes to the bathroom. Where his toys are kept. What routes he will be taken on for walks. And so on.

Puppies love routines. They feel reassured and safe when they know where everything is and when they're on a predictable schedule. Routines reassure your puppy that, regardless of the unfamiliarity of his new world, everything is predictable. Routines reassure him that he knows what comes next, that his world is the same as it was yesterday, and that it will be the same tomorrow. Routines reassure him that YOU are dependable, that he can count on you to say and do the same things.

Correction words. What "No" means -- to stop what he's doing when you say "No!" or "Ah-ah!" or "Stop that."

Praise words. What "Good" means -- to wag his tail and look happy when you say "Good!" or "YAY!" (Puppies especially love the sound of "Yay!")

Crate training. To stay quietly in his crate at night when he goes to sleep - and during the day whenever we're not interacting with him.

Housebreaking. You should immediately introduce him to his bathroom spot, but a puppy of 2-3 months old is still an infant, so it will be several months before his internal organs are developed enough for reliability. Toy breeds and hound breeds are especially slow to housebreak, with many not being reliable until eight to ten months of age.

Acceptance of being handled. Teach him what a grooming table is, and introduce the grooming positions of "Sit" and "Stand" and "Open your mouth" while you handle him all over, brush his coat, brush his teeth, and clip his nails.

Food words. "Hungry," "Supper", "Breakfast", "Biscuit".

To take things gently from your hand. "Easy!" No grabbing.

At 3-6 months old, your puppy should begin learning...

To sit on command.

To lie down on command - and to STAY lying down for up to 30 minutes.

To stop barking when you tell him to be quiet.

To interact well with strangers, other dogs, and other animals.

To walk politely on the leash.

To look directly at you when you say his name.

To come when called.

To "give" or drop whatever is in his mouth when you tell him to.

To play games (such as "Find it!" and "Bring it!") with his toys.

To wait inside the door or gate, even when it's wide open.

And more...

At 6-10 months old, your puppy should begin learning...

To stay sitting while you walk away from him.

To walk very attentively by "heeling" close behind your left leg.

To retrieve his ball or toy when you throw it.

To do simple tricks: "Shake hands!" "Dance!" "Roll over!"

And more -- whatever else he's ready for!

Dog Breed Traits

2008-12-25T00:00:00.000-08:00

Dog Breed Traits

There are many different TRAITS (physical characteristics, mental characteristics, emotional characteristics, behavioral characteristics) that a dog might have.

He might be small, medium-sized, or large.

He might need lots of brushing, or not much brushing.

He might shed a lot, or hardly at all

He might need a lot of exercise.

He might be a peaceful dog, or more on the aggressive side.

He might be easy to train, or more stubborn.

And so on.

Which dog breed traits are right for YOU?

Which dog breed traits would be best for YOU depends partly on which ones you find most appealing.

But only partly!

Which traits would be best for you also depends on whether you’re able to DO whatever those traits require you to do.

For example, you might admire the athleticism and high energy of a Border Collie. But athleticism and high energy are ONLY a good match for you if you can DO all the activities and exercise that athleticism and high energy requires!
Don’t have the time? Then athleticism and high energy aren't good matches for you -- and you’re not a good match for an athletic, high-energy dog -- no matter how "appealing" he is.

People often make the mistake of thinking that the only thing that counts when choosing a dog is whether he meets THEIR needs. That’s very wrong.

You also have to consider the DOG’S needs -- ALL of his needs --
and whether you’re able to provide for those needs or not.
Every dog breed has different needs.

Some breeds need extra socialization to keep them from becoming aggressive or shy. Some breeds need a home without children or cats. Some breeds need an extra high fence. Some breeds need an experienced owner who knows how to handle dominant or stubborn dogs.

So for each dog breed trait, don’t just ask yourself if you like that trait. Also ask: "What does this trait require from me, and can I provide that?"

Dog breed traits to consider

1. Size

Tiny and small dogs have very different needs compared to large and giant dogs. Don't acquire a dog at either end of the size spectrum until you learn what those needs are and whether you can really provide them.

2. Brushing

For some dogs, you need only brush dirt and loose hair from their short coat. Other dogs require brushing and combing twice a week to prevent mats and tangles. And dogs with a long coat require a dedicated routine of 10-20 minutes, every other day, else their coat will be an ugly, matted mass.

3. Trimming/clipping

Some coats require that you use scissors or electric clippers to remove longish hairs around the feet, chest, and stomach, and also trim around the anal area and groin so these areas stay clean and sanitary. Some coats require significant trimming or clipping -- the entire coat must be scissored or clipped several times a year.

4. Shedding/allergies

Many people want a non-shedding dog, but the only breeds that don't shed at all are hairless breeds. Next, there are a small handful of breeds that shed very lightly. Then there are about two dozen breeds that shed lightly.The majority of breeds are average shedders, which means that in our temperature-controlled houses, they shed very small amounts of hair all through the year PLUS a heavier 3-week shedding period each spring and fall. Finally, some breeds are heavy shedders. They shed small amounts of hair throughout the year, and so much hair during their spring and fall shedding seasons that the chunks need to be raked out with a special shedding brush.

5. Attitude toward children

When you’re trying to choose a dog, the issue of children can be a real problem. The reality is that from a dog’s perspective, children are NOT like adult human beings at all.

I've written a book called How To Buy a Good Dog that talks very frankly about choosing a safe breed for children. For many reasons (all of which are covered in the book), the majority of purebred dog breeds are not suitable for children under age 10. I'll tell you which breeds I DO recommend for young children, which breeds I don't recommend, and which breeds are the very worst choices.

More dog breed traits...

Amount of physical exercise

Amount of mental exercise/activities

Recommended fence height

Risk of aggression toward people

Risk of aggression toward other dogs

Attitude toward cats and other small pets

Obedience/trainability

Lifespan

Cost

Adopting a Dog From Dog Breed Rescue

2008-12-24T23:58:00.000-08:00

Adopting a Dog From Dog Breed Rescue

Rescue groups, unlike animal shelters and humane societies, usually don't have a central location where dogs are housed for the public to come see.

Instead, a rescue group is a small group of dedicated dog lovers who maintain a network of temporary foster homes. When a dog is turned over to a rescue group, he is placed into a foster home for an evaluation period. The foster family provides health care and basic training while the rescue group searches for the right permanent home.

Some rescue groups specialize in one breed (like Pug Rescue of Sacramento). Others offer several related breeds (Northeast All Retriever Rescue). Still others offer all breeds, crosses, and mixes.

Advantages of rescue groups over animal shelters

A rescue dog, as opposed to an animal shelter dog, has been evaluated in a home setting, so the foster family can usually tell you quite a bit about the dog's habits and behaviors. They know if he's housebroken, if he barks a lot, if he likes children, if he gets along with other dogs and cats.

A rescue dog has usually received some housebreaking, socialization, and training from the foster family.

A rescue dog will always be spayed or neutered, and has had any health problems treated (or at least diagnosed and treatment begun).

Disadvantages of rescue groups

It can be DIFFICULT to adopt a dog from a rescue group. You have to fill out a lengthy questionnaire, submit to an interview, provide references, and often allow a visit to your home, as though you were trying to adopt a child. Rescue people try to be very careful with their dogs, so their adoption requirements are often strict.

It's usually more expensive ($100 to $400) to adopt a dog from a rescue group than from an animal shelter or humane society. But keep in mind that the rescue group has neutered the dog, treated health problems, started a flea and heartworm preventative program, provided grooming, and invested time and effort in basic training. Rescue groups do NOT make money -- indeed, their adoptions fees don't even begin to cover their costs.

How Long Do Dogs Live? (Dog Lifespan)

2008-12-24T23:52:00.000-08:00

How Long Do Dogs Live? (Dog Lifespan)

Typical lifespan of small dogs

Smaller dogs generally live longer than larger dogs, mostly because they don't suffer as many serious skeletal and cardiovascular diseases as larger dogs.

Their bones and joints don't need to support as much weight, so they don't break down as quickly.

Their heart doesn't need to pump blood through a huge body, so it doesn't wear out as quickly.

They have proportionately fewer growth hormones surging through their metabolic system. Studies suggest that growth hormones may shorten life.

Small dogs often live to 14 or 15 years of age.

Examples of long-lived breeds include Beagles, Bichons Frise, Corgis, Dachshunds, Lhasa Apsos, Miniature Poodles, Miniature Schnauzers, Schipperkes, Shelties, many terriers, and many toy breeds such as Chihuahuas, Maltese, Min Pins, Pomeranians, Toy Poodles, and Yorkies.

However...

Smaller breeds are NOT necessarily HEALTHY throughout their longer life. On the contrary, many small dogs are very prone to health problems. It's just that their particular health problems tend to affect their QUALITY of life, rather than its length.

Typical lifespan of giant or large bulky dogs

In terms of lifespan, this is the saddest group of all:

Irish Wolfhound	6-8 years
English Mastiff, Great Dane, Greater Swiss Mountain Dog, Leonberger	6-10 years
Bernese Mountain Dog, Bloodhound, Bullmastiff	7-9 years
Dogue de Bordeaux, Newfoundland, Rottweiler, St. Bernard	8-10 years
Cane Corso, Great Pyrenees, Neapolitan Mastiff, Scottish Deerhound	8-11 years

Typical lifespan of medium to large dogs

Most dogs in this size range live 10-13 years. But in some of these breeds, life-threatening health problems are so common that it can be difficult to find an individual that you can count on remaining healthy for a normal lifetime. Many individuals of these breeds live only 5-7 years.

For example:

Many Golden Retrievers and Boxers die early from cancer.

Many Doberman Pinschers and Cavaliers die early from heart disease.

Many German Shepherds and other large breeds die early from hip and joint diseases.

Many Great Danes and Akitas die early from bloat.

Many Welsh Springer Spaniels die early from epilepsy.

Many Chinese Shar-Peis die early from amyloidosis.

The list goes on...

Rottweiler What's good&What's bad

2008-12-24T23:47:00.000-08:00

Rottweiler What's good&What's bad

There are energetic Rottweilers, and placid Rottweilers.

Hard-headed Rottweilers, and sweet-natured Rottweilers.

Serious Rottweilers, and good-natured goofballs.

Introverted Rottweilers, and Rottweilers who love everyone.

If you acquire a Rottweiler puppy, you can't know for sure what he or she will grow up to be like. Because a good number of purebred puppies do NOT grow up to conform to the "norm."

Now let's look at some common characteristics for this breed...

If you want a dog who...

Is large, stocky, muscular, and powerful

Is calm, steady-tempered, confident, and courageous

Is versatile -- when well-trained, can learn and do almost anything

Makes a fine watchdog and guardian

A Rottweiler may be right for you.

If you don't want to deal with...

An extremely careful search to avoid all the bad-tempered Rottweilers

A bulky dog who takes up a lot of space in your house and car

A heavy dog who wants to sit on your feet, lie on your lap, and lean his weight against your leg

Rowdiness and exuberant jumping, especially when young

Destructiveness when bored or not exercised enough

Providing enough socialization so their protectiveness doesn't become aggression

Aggression toward other animals -- chasing instincts

Strong-willed mind of his own, requiring a confident owner who can take charge

Slobbering and drooling

Gassiness (flatulence)

Shedding

Legal liabilities (public perception, future breed bans, insurance problems, increased chance of lawsuits)

A multitude of serious health problems and a short lifespan

A Rottweiler may not be right for you.

If I were considering a Rottweiler...

My major concerns would be:

Unstable temperaments. Rottweilers are a dime a dozen, and most of them are bred and offered for sale by people who don't have the slightest idea of how to breed good-tempered dogs. Obedience instructors and behavioral consultants see LOTS of Rottweilers who are dangerously sharp, aggressive, or fearful.

Providing the proper balance of exercise. Young Rottweilers need enough exercise to keep them lean and healthy, but not so much that their soft growing bones, joints, and ligaments become over-stressed and damaged. Adult Rottweilers need more exercise to keep them in shape, but not in hot or humid weather for fear of overheating.

Since you have to minimize their exercise, young Rottweilers can be very rambunctious. They will romp with uncoordinated gawkiness all over your house. You need to substitute extra quantities of companionship and supervision. Otherwise, left alone, young Rottweilers become bored and destructive -- and their powerful jaws can literally destroy your living room.

If you simply want a pet for your family, and don't have the time or inclination to take your dog running or hiking or biking or swimming, or to get involved in advanced obedience, or agility (obstacle course), or schutzhund (protection), or tracking, or pulling a cart or sled, or a similar canine activity, I do not recommend this breed.

Providing enough socialization. Most Rottweilers have protective instincts toward strangers. They need extensive exposure to friendly people so they learn to recognize the normal behaviors of "good guys." Then they can recognize the difference when someone acts abnormally. Without careful socialization, they may be suspicious of everyone, which could lead to biting. Some Rottweilers go in the opposite direction -- without enough socialization, they become fearful of strangers, which can lead to defensive biting.

If you have small children, I do not recommend a Rottweiler. Young Rottweilers (up to about three years old) can be bulls in a china shop. When they romp and jump, they do so with great vigor, and things can go flying, including people. In addition, Rottweilers may try to protect their own children from other children, which could lead to tragedy if kids are simply roughhousing and your Rottweiler decides to stop it. With such a massive dog, I wouldn't take the risk.

Animal aggression. Many Rottweilers will not tolerate another dog of the same sex, and some won't tolerate the opposite sex either. Some Rottweilers have strong instincts to chase and seize cats and other fleeing creatures. If anything goes wrong in the breeding, socializing, training, handling, or management of this breed, it is capable of seriously injuring or killing other animals.

The strong temperament. Rottweilers are not Golden Retrievers. The best Rottweilers are versatile working dogs, capable of learning a great deal, but they are not pushovers to raise and train. Some Rottweilers are willful, obstinate, and dominant (they want to be the boss) and will make you prove that you can make them do things. You must show them, through absolute consistency, that you mean what you say.

To teach your Rottweiler to listen to you, "Respect Training" is mandatory. My discusses the program you need.

Shedding. Rottweilers shed more than you might think. Their short, coarse hairs come off on your hands when you pet them, and stick tenaciously to your carpeting, upholstery, and clothing.

Slobbering. Some Rottweilers, especially large males with loose jowls, tend to slobber or drool, especially after eating and drinking.

Gassiness (flatulence) that can send you running for cover. Fortunately, Rottweilers who are fed a natural diet of real meat and other fresh foods have much less trouble with gassiness.

Serious health problems. The Rottweiler is one of the riskiest of all breeds in the health department. Their lifespan has become short -- an alarming number of Rottweilers are crippled by bone and joint diseases and/or succumb to cancer or heart disease in middle age.

To keep this breed healthy, I strongly recommend following all of the advice on my

Legal liabilities. Rottweilers may be targeted for "banning" in certain areas, or refusal of homeowner insurance policies. Your friends and neighbors may be uncomfortable around this breed. In this day and age, the legal liabilities of owning any breed that looks intimidating and has a history as a guard dog should be seriously considered. People are quicker to sue if such a dog does anything even remotely questionable.

Frankly, most Rottweilers are "too much dog" for the average household. Very few people really have the knowledge or skills necessary to manage this breed or to provide the activities that keep him satisfied.

If you're considering an adult Rottweiler...

There are plenty of adult Rottweilers who have already proven themselves NOT to have negative characteristics. If you find such an adult, don't let "typical breed negatives" worry you.

When you acquire a puppy, you're acquiring potential -- what he one day will be. So "typical breed characteristics" are very important. But when you acquire an adult, you're acquiring what he already IS.

Rottweiler gallery

2008-12-24T23:39:00.000-08:00

DOG VS BULL

2008-12-24T12:04:00.001-08:00

KANGAL vs CAUCASIAN Dog vs SARPLANINAC

2008-12-24T11:45:00.000-08:00

ugliest dog contest

2008-12-21T06:25:00.000-08:00

ugliest dog contest


	Ugliest Dog February Winner

	Booger


	Ugliest Dog March Winner

	Bubba


	Ugliest Dog April Winner

	Oscar


	Ugliest Dog May Winner

	Chico


	Ugliest Dog June Winner

	Mr. Magoo

Ugliest Dog
July Winner

Munchkin
Worlds Ugliest Dog


	Ugliest Dog August Winner

	'Lil Biggles


	Ugliest Dog September Winner

	Genie

	Ugliest Dog October Winner

	Jersey Girl


	Ugliest Dog November Winner

		Ugly

Ugliest Dog December Winner

	Minnie Me

ugliest dogs in the world

2008-12-21T06:05:00.000-08:00

ugliest dogs in the world
those with weak heart stay away

keeping pet insuranse down

2008-12-09T02:37:00.000-08:00

keeping pet insuranse down

If you are like many, you have pets in your home. The most common animal to own is a dog, followed closely by the cat. As a pet owner, you understand the importance of keeping your pet healthy and most likely, try to keep them healthy so you don’t have enormous bills from the veterinary. The fact is the price of tests and treatments for pets are extremely high and are in close relation to those that are done on humans. Pet insurance can help you to keep those bills down
As technology has advanced, so has the treatment for pets. Instead of being euthanized, pets are now being treated for kidney disease, cancer, and other once-fatal diseases. Treatments are being done on pets, such as radiation therapy, that were once only received by humans. However, the cost of these treatments are expensive and can range from $1,000 to as much as $6,000 or more, depending upon the length and plan of treatment.

Pet insurance is available to you for your pet that will help deter the cost of these expensive tests and treatments to help prolong your animal’s life. However, the cost of pet insurance can be expensive, as well. The following information will help you keep the cost of your pet insurance at a low-cost.

Shop Around
Just like any other insurance, you will want to shop around for your pet insurance. You’ll want to analyze the monthly and annual cost of the insurance, as well as co-payments and deductibles. If you have more than one pet, you’ll want to find a provider that will offer you a discount for multiple pets. You will also want to make certain you understand exactly what the policy does and does not cover for your pet.

Clinics
If you find that your pet insurance does not cover preventive measures, such as rabies shots, check out clinics in your location. They will often offer a rabies vaccination clinic for those who can not afford to pay the office visit to get their pet’s the necessary shots. They will offer you low-cost vaccinations for your pet.

Medications
If your pet is required to be on medications and you find your pet insurance simply doesn’t cover enough of the cost, shop around for cheaper medications and supplies for your pets. There are several online stores that offer medications for pets at a discount that may be cheaper than what you are required to pay through your insurance.

Preventive Measures
There are several things you can do to make certain you do not have to use the pet insurance on your pet. One of the most important things you can do is to keep your pet on a leash or inside. Many pet owners are glad they have pet insurance if their pet gets hit by a car or injured outside, however, if you prevent an accident from happening, you’re one step ahead of the game. Another thing you can do is to make certain your pet is being fed properly. Pet insurance is often used due to a pet not being fed properly and developing medical conditions due to their diet. You’ll find out that by watching your pet’s weight will also help to prevent certain health problems in your pet, as well.

dealing with dog having parvo disease

2008-12-09T02:36:00.000-08:00

dealing with dog having parvo disease

Dog parvovirus is a deadly disease that can kill within 48 hours, and is most dangerous to puppies as they do not have their natural immunities built up. It’s heartbreaking to watch your brand new puppy die before your eyes with nothing you can do about it. Arm yourself with the right information

Symptoms of Dog Parvo

If your dog exhibits any of these symptoms, you need to take them to a vet immediately. There are some home treatments that claim to work. However, do you really want to risk it? The vet will charge you a lot to save your puppy, and it’s not even guaranteed to work, and the home treatments are cheap in comparison. It all depends on how attached your are.

- Lethargy - Your dog will not be playful and refuse to eat. This is due to the weakening of the intestines allows bacteria
to flow into the bloodstream and makes them weak.
- Vomiting - Parvo attacks the intestines and messes up their digestive system.
- Bloody Diarrhea - This is mainly how parvo exits the body and spreads.

Death by parvo is caused primarily by extreme dehydration and malnutrition. The rarer cardiac form causes a complete failure of the heart muscle, and works faster. There’s not much even a vet can do for the cardiac form of the illness.

What the Vet Can Do

Parvo is deadly even in the best of circumstances. Since the main danger is dehydration, the vet will put your dog on some kind of intravaneous liquid nutrition. After that, it’s just a waiting game while the dog’s natural immunity fights the attack.

If in the unfortunate case you do lose your puppy and desire to get a new one, you must sanitize your house to kill any lingering virus. Parvo is very resilient and can survive for 6 months outside a body even in the harshest climates. The only sure way to kill it is with a strong water and bleach solution. Be sure to drench any areas that your previous dog could have touched. Losing one puppy is hard enough. Don’t risk going through it again.

Prevention

The best thing, of course, is prevention. A dog is most vulnerable after its mother’s natural anti-bodies have left its system, and before it has built up its own through vaccinations. Be sure and talk with your vet if you have any concerns or questions.

choosing the right dog bed

2008-12-09T02:29:00.000-08:00

choosing the right dog bed

When you get a pet home, there are some basic things that you will need and they come under pet supplies. Some of the important pet supplies include pet food, eating bowls, harnesses and pet bed among many others.

One of the important things that you need to consider while buying a pet bed is the way your dog or cat or any other pet sleeps. A pet bed is mostly required for dogs and cats only although you can buy it for rabbits and some of the other smaller pets too.

The second most important thing to understand is that a pet bed will be different for a dog and different for a cat. Normally, what you use for your dog will not be used for your cat. You can find pet beds at various stores offering other pet supplies and even online. One of the good things is that you will find a lot of variety when it comes to pet beds including the popular heated beds. The heated beds have grown in popularity because of the fact that they have a heating element that will keep the bed warm in the winters and will be comfortable and relaxing for your pet. You can choose from a heated orthopedic bed to a heated thermo pet bed. Most of the pet beds are available in three sizes, which are:

· Small: 19″x24″ – The small pet bed can take weights of up to 20lbs · Medium: 26″x29″ - The medium pet bed can take weights of up to 40lbs · Large: 36×38″ - The large pet bed can take weights of up to 60lbs

Another type of popular pet bed found in pet supplies is the round bed. This is a perfect bed for dogs that like to cuddle up when they sleep and for cats that love to sleep with their legs thrown apart. This pet bed is available in three sizes for dogs and they are:

· Medium: 36 inches - The medium pet bed can take weights of up to 50lbs · Large: 42 inches - The large pet bed can take weights of up to 80lbs · Extra Large: 52 inches - The extra large pet bed can take weights of up to 140lbs

You can also get these beds in different combinations of colour and design like blue polyester suede that will look neat and even go with the overall décor of your home. The important aspects that needs to be considered while buying a pet bed include the size of your pet, the amount of space in the room, the number of pet you have, their weights, if you need separate pet beds or a single one, the colours, do you need a simple pet bed or a heated bed etc.
When you have decided on your pet bed the next thing will be to consider what other pet supplies you will require. What do I need? These items will vary depending on your pet; cat, dog or rabbit, all of which will each have its own requirements. The most important thing of your pet supplies will be food; a pet won’t last very long without it. Once you have selected your food then there will be all the sundries that we spoil our pets with, like collars, lead, pet beds and clothes.

petspedia

جيرارد يغيب لمدة شهر عن الملاعب

الصقر : قسونا على القادسية من اجل اسعاد الجماهير الحمراء

صحيفة : الزمالك يسعى للتعاقد مع ابراهيما كامار

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