Chewing

Chewing is something that all dog like to do. In fact it helps to keep their jaws strong and their teeth clean. Puppies need to chew to help them during teething. If you catch your dog chewing something you don't want him to chew, take the object away from him and give him something that he is allowed to chew. Be sure to praise him for chewing the proper objects. Be sure to supply him with proper toys and bones to keep him occupied. NEVER give the dog old shoes or socks or towels or any household object as a chew toy. The dog will not be able to tell the difference between the shoe he can chew and your new alligator loafers that he definitely can't chew.

Escape Artists

Escape artists are very adept at getting out of yards. The reasons for escaping can be boredom, loneliness, looking for a mate or just wanting to get out and check out the neighborhood.

With some dogs, using a strong cable can be better than a fence, like with some of the "Nordic" breeds like huskies, who don't like being behind a fence. Very often a privacy fence will solve that problem, because they can't see what's on the other side. Chain link fences are much easier to escape from because dogs can get under the fence or actually learn to use the links to climb the fence.

Electronic fences are not very reliable for containing dogs. The problems with that type of fencing are both keeping your dog in and keeping other animals out. A dog chasing something or running away out of fear, could easily break through the electric shock without even feeling it. Once he's out of the yard, he can't get back in the yard because of the collar. Other animals can still get in your yard because they aren't wearing the collar. That can cause problems for both your dog and the visitor. Another thing to consider is the battery. If the battery wears out and you don't realize it, the fence won't work I happen to have a neighbor who experienced that situation.

I personally don't believe dogs should be left alone in a yard when you are not home. There are too many dangers to them. Escaping, being tormented by neighbors, being dog napped. When you're not home you should bring the dog inside the house or in the garage if possible.

Teaching the QUIET Command

You will need either a spray bottle filled with 50/50 vinegar and water OR a tin soda can with some rocks or pennies inside and the top taped closed. Squirt the dog or shake the can to cause the dog to be quiet for a moment. The instant he stops barking say "Quiet, Good Dog" and praise him for the few seconds of silence. Repeat as necessary, always saying "Quiet" the instant he stops barking followed by a quick "Good Dog, Good Quiet." With persistence he will soon get the idea.

If all else fails and you just can't get your dog to be quiet long enough to praise him for a quiet moment your last resort can be a Citronella or Lemon spray bark collar. They work pretty well and will not harm the dog in any way. The problem with using a training collar is that the dog is usually smart enough to know when he's not wearing the collar and will probably resort to his barking again. Once you begin using it you might have to use it all the time, or at least during the times the dog is prone to barking.

Digging

Digging is done for various reasons. Once you figure out why the dog digs and what reward he is getting out of his digging, you can begin to solve your problem. Some of the more common reasons dogs dig are:

1) to get to the cool ground to lie down in; 2) out of boredom; or 3) because it's just plain FUN. Some breeds of dogs are bred for digging and rooting in the ground, like the terrier group of dogs.

The first reason is easy. Be sure there is plenty of shade and water for your dog when he is outside. The dog wants to keep cool, so why not supplying him with his own baby pool. Buy him a hard plastic pool and put it in a nice shady place (not on dirt). The dog will probably love soaking in the pool on hot days. Just be sure to keep plenty of towels handy so you can dry him off before letting him in the house.

The second reason is little harder to deal with. You might need to increase the dog's exercise time so he is too tired to be bored or give him a good meaty bone to chew, or some fun toys to play with. Also, if you leave the dog outside by himself for extended periods of time, you might try letting him come inside with the family more often. Dogs are pack animals, and don't really enjoy being by them selves. If your dog is going to be strictly an outdoor dog you might want to build him a large kennel with a cement floor so he can't dig. Just be sure to give him shelter, some toys and maybe a pool to play in.

The third reason is really hard to control. If he really enjoys digging you will probably do well to go with the flow and give him his own garden to dig in. Seriously. Dig up a small plot of ground and mix some good sand in it to keep it soft. Go out and dig with him until he realizes that it's OK to dig there. This might work well for the dogs that are bred to root and dig for vermin. I know people who have successfully done this with their digging doggies.

dog training rewards

In your dog’s upbringing, make use of the principles of and punishment. We give a reward when the dog does something that we would like to see repeated. The essence of reward is that it gives the dog a good feeling- Because it gets that good feeling from a certain action or exercise, it will enjoy repeating it. In rewarding, two things are important:

• The dog must understand that It is being rewarded;
• The dog must understand why it is being rewarded.

This would seem to be a natural conclusion, but in practice it does not seem to be so obvious. How often is a dog rewarded with only a mumbled "Good boy" and a nonchalant pat on the head? Or a morsel is thrown at it without a word being wasted?

You can tell from the dog’s reaction whether this is experienced as a reward. Its entire body and expression should radiate joy. You can achieve this by rewarding your dog lavishly with a high voice and a sincere hug. When it does something good, it is the best dog in the world and you must let it know this too!

Many people find this difficult, especially when other people are around. Don’t be shy about this, because with a clear reward your dog will learn faster.

The moment of rewarding must be well-timed. You do not reward before your dog has obeyed a command and neither do you do it afterward. If, for example, you want your dog to lie down, do not reward it at the moment it starts to obey, but only when it is actually lying down.

Dogs Who Push Other Dogs Away To Get Attention, Treats, etc.

In a multi-dog house, often one dog will push the other dogs away to get attention, treats, toys, etc. from the owners. Many people think the dog is jealous, but jealousy is a complex emotion and there is no proof that dogs are capable of complex emotions and some proof that they are not. Resolving the problem in the same way that you would resolve a similar problem with a jealous child is not effective.

What works is teaching the pushy dog that waiting is a much better deal for the dog than pushing. The dog can learn that everything good that happens to the dog happens because of his own behavior, not the behavior of the other dogs or his relationship to the other dogs.

To start, work individually with each dog. Have the dog sit, say the dog’s name and if the dog doesn’t move, give the dog the usual small, easily swallowed, treat. Repeat, repeat, repeat. If the dog pushes his head forward or lunges for the treat, tuck the treat into your hand, put your hands under your armpits and turn away from the dog. Wait at least 5 seconds before trying again. Never give the dog the treat if the dog moves her head. Most dogs will catch on quickly, but dogs who have learned that lunging gets them what they want will take longer because they have learn that their old habits no longer work and then figure out what works.

Once the ‘sit and don’t move’ behavior is solid with each dog, then pair 2 dogs. Have them sit about 2’ away from you and about 2’ away from each other. Say “Fido” and give Fido a treat. If Fifi moves, get the treat into Fido’s mouth and cue Fido to stay. Calmly lead Fifi away and gate her off, but make sure she can see Fido. Quickly go back to Fido, say Fido’s name and give Fido a treat. Say Fido again and give Fido another treat and repeat, repeat, repeat treating Fido while Fifi watches. DO NOT CORRECT Fifi in any way or you will “poison the cue” and it will take longer for Fifi to learn the right behavior.

It will not make Fifi jealous; it will teach Fifi what happens when she moves. Then bring Fifi back out and cue her to sit, again about 2’ away from you and 2’ away from Fido and say “Fido” and give Fido a treat. If Fifi moves, then calmly lead Fifi back behind the gate again. Repeat, repeat, repeat until Fifi doesn’t move when you give Fido a treat. Be patient. If Fifi doesn’t get it in about 5 minutes, then practice more with Fifi by herself before pairing her with Fido again.

As soon as Fifi doesn’t move, say “Fifi” and give Fifi 5-10 treats fed one at a time. If Fido moves, use your body to block him while you treat Fifi. Then calmly lead Fido out of the room and gate him off, and proceed just like you did when Fifi moved. Fifi has just started to learn that sitting still gets her 5-10 treats while moving gets her gated out and Fido gets all the treats. Practice, practice, practice. It only takes 2-5 minutes a day and one day when you get the treats out, you’ll have Fifi and Fido automatically sitting without a cue and calmly waiting for you to say a name to get a treat.

If you have more than two dogs, round robin all of them in pairs before you add a third dog. If you have 4 dogs, round robin all of them in a group of 3 before you add the 4th dog, etc.

You can do the same thing with for dogs that push for attention, instead of treats, pet and praise.

If you are throwing a toy and the other dog is getting greedy, put a lead on Fido and stand on it. Cue Fido to sit/stay. Throw the toy and say “Fifi, get it” or whatever cue you use. If you are not using a cue, use one. “Get it”, “fetch”, anything is ok, but use the dog’s name with a cue.

If Fido tries to run after it, the short lead that you are standing on will keep Fido from getting the toy. Cue Fido to sit/stay again and quickly throw the toy again, cueing Fifi to “get it”. Repeat, repeat, repeat until Fido is staying when you throw the toy. Then have quick game of tuggy with Fido! WOW! If I sit still I get to play!!!!!

Put the lead on Fifi and repeat the process.

How To Communicate with your dog

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How to Choose a Good Puppy

Don't let the PUPPY choose YOU.

You may have been advised by well-meaning friends to let a puppy choose YOU, i.e. the one who comes to you first or seems to like you the most. This usually results in all the bold and pushy puppies (who are often difficult to raise) being taken first, while the gentle puppies (who usually make calmer pets) wait politely in the background.

Most families make a mistake by letting the most brash, forceful puppies choose them. Sure, these little dynamos are a blast to play with for an hour at the breeder's. But they can drive you crazy if you have to live with them 24 hours a day.

A puppy can love you without being suited to you -- and a puppy can be perfectly suited to you without launching himself immediately into your lap. Give each puppy a fair evaluation.

Evaluate the litter as a whole

Your first look should be at the litter as a group. If there are four puppies and three of them are running away or staying at arm's length or woofing suspiciously at you, I'm sorry to say your visit is over.

No, you shouldn't buy the fourth puppy. The chances are too great that shyness or distrustfulness is in his genes, too, and simply hasn't caught up to him yet.

And don't let a breeder laugh off his puppies' timidity with assurances of, "Oh, they just haven't been handled much." Lack of socialization means laziness or ignorance on the part of the breeder. You do not want a puppy from a lazy or ignorant breeder. If he can't even socialize properly, who knows what else he screwed up?

Puppies who tuck their tails or shrink away from you are not safe choices as pets. Don't try to convince yourself that you can "bring them out of their shell." You don't know what's going on in these puppies' genes. Shy puppies usually become shy dogs who may snap defensively when startled.

If the litter isn't running away, what should they be doing? Normal puppies are friendly, curious, trusting. They mill around your feet, tug at your shoelaces, crawl into your lap, nibble on your fingers.

After a while, they may stop playing with you and begin wrestling with one another. You can tell a lot about the individual puppies by the way they interact with their littermates.

• Which ones are strong, outgoing, bossy, noisy?
• Which ones are quiet, submissive, gentle?
• Which ones grab all the toys and win the tugs-of-war?
• Which ones seem delicate or picked on?

Most families do best with a pup who is neither boss of the litter nor lowest on the totem pole. Look for good-natured, middle-of-the-road pups who don't growl or grab or bite, but who do wag their tails and hold their own.

Clap your hands gently, snap your fingers, jingle your car keys, shuffle your feet, whistle softly, cluck your tongue.

• Which pups are interested?
• Which ones come over to investigate?
• Which ones are apprehensive?

You want an alert and confident puppy. A nervous puppy who is afraid of sudden sounds or quick movements will not do well in a busy household. A puppy who is completely oblivious may be too dull, too independent, or unhealthy.

Evaluate individual puppies

Next, ask the breeder if you can see each puppy who is available for sale, individually. Ask him to remove the other pups.

You want to see how each puppy reacts when he is away from his littermates. Sometimes a puppy who seems bold when his friends are "backing him up" will become uncertain or anxious on his own. Or sometimes an energetic puppy will calm down when not being egged on by the others; given your undivided attention, he may become quite the lap-sitter.

• What is his general expression and body language?
• Does he keep his tail up or mostly down?
• Is his tail wagging, even hesitantly?
• When you talk to him, does he look at your face?
• Does he cock his head and listen to you?

Socializing Your Puppy or Adult Dog

How does your dog react to strangers?

• Some dogs love everybody. My dog Buffy "never met a stranger", i.e. she treats everyone like a long-lost friend.

• Some dogs are fine with their own family (and perhaps a few family friends), but aren't so keen on strangers.

• Some dogs are fine with people of one sex -- but not the other sex.

• Some dogs are fine with adults -- but not with children. (A few dogs are the opposite -- they're fond of kids, but wary of adults.)

• Some dogs are suspicious of certain physical features. For example, a person wearing a hat, or dark sunglasses, or a beard, or a uniform. A few dogs are so observant that they may even notice a person's skin color and react suspiciously to it if it's not what they're used to.

• Some dogs dislike ALL strangers.

• And some dogs basically ignore strangers -- their motto seems to be: "Live and let live."

How does your dog react to other dogs?

• Some dogs are friendly with virtually every other dog.

• Some dogs are good with other dogs they know well -- but not with strange dogs.

• Some dogs are good with dogs of the opposite sex -- but not the same sex.

• Some dogs are tolerant with puppies -- but not with other adult dogs.

• Some dogs are fussy about the SIZE of the other dog. They may dislike dogs larger than themselves. Or they may dislike dogs smaller than themselves.

• Some dogs are fussy about the BREED of the other dog. They may be fine with their own breed, but dislike other breeds. Or they may be fine with other breeds, but not with their own!

• Some dogs are aggressive or timid with virtually every other dog.

• And some dogs just ignore other dogs.

Your dog's attitude toward people and other dogs comes from...

His breed

In some breeds, the GENES for temperament traits such as friendliness, suspiciousness, aggression, etc. are so strong and so prevalent throughout the breed that it is highly likely that your dog will inherit them.

For example, most Golden Retrievers inherit genes for friendliness toward everyone. Most Chihuahuas inherit genes for suspiciousness toward strangers and other dogs. Most Pit Bull Terriers inherit genes for aggression toward other dogs. Most Borzois inherit chasing instincts toward smaller dogs.

His parents

Whatever his breed, if your dog's parents had a particular attitude toward people and other dogs, your dog will inherit THEIR genes and will probably also mimic THEIR behavior. So if your dog's breed is usually friendly, but his particular parents were suspicious, he may end up suspicious. If his breed is usually suspicious, but his particular parents was friendly, he may end up friendly.

How long he was left with his mother and siblings

If removed before seven weeks old, a puppy will not learn essential canine social signals such as bite inhibition, which are taught by his mother and siblings during the first seven weeks of life.

Puppies brought home before seven weeks old very often end up mouthy and nippy, resistant to being handled, or aggressive or fearful with other dogs.

On the other hand, if a puppy lives with his mother or siblings for too LONG (more than 12 weeks), his position in the "pecking order" may be so established that he will always be inclined to act dominant (if he was at the top) or submissive (if he was at the bottom) toward people or other dogs.

His early experiences

Obviously, if your dog who was frightened by another person or dog early in his life, or if he acted inappropriately toward other people or dogs during his early life and wasn't corrected properly for this inappropriate behavior, you can expect him to be aggressive or fearful.

How well you socialize him

Socializing means getting your dog used to people, other dogs, and the big wide world in general.

Puppy socialization has the most dramatic effect on how your dog turns out. You must get your puppy out into the world between 7 weeks old and 6 months old.

Adolescent socialization is also critical. Adolescence begins between 6 and 9 months old, and ends between 1 and 3 years old. Larger breeds have the longer adolescent periods. Just as in people, adolescence in dogs can be an awkward time of change and upheaval. A teenage dog's attitude toward strangers and other dogs may change from week to week, even from day to day.

Adult socialization may not be able to change your dog's attitude toward people and other dogs, but it can control his behavior so that he doesn't ACT aggressive or afraid.

The moral is this: You can't change your dog's breed. You can't change the genes he inherited from his parents. You can't put him back with his mother and siblings for that critical seven week period. You can't undo negative experiences that occurred before you got him. What you CAN do is socialize him properly, now that you have him.

Dog Breed Traits

There are many different TRAITS (physical characteristics, mental characteristics, emotional characteristics, behavioral characteristics) that a dog might have.

• He might be small, medium-sized, or large.
• He might need lots of brushing, or not much brushing.
• He might shed a lot, or hardly at all
• He might need a lot of exercise.
• He might be a peaceful dog, or more on the aggressive side.
• He might be easy to train, or more stubborn.
• And so on.

Which dog breed traits are right for YOU?

Which dog breed traits would be best for YOU depends partly on which ones you find most appealing.

But only partly!

Which traits would be best for you also depends on whether you’re able to DO whatever those traits require you to do.

For example, you might admire the athleticism and high energy of a Border Collie. But athleticism and high energy are ONLY a good match for you if you can DO all the activities and exercise that athleticism and high energy requires!

Don’t have the time? Then athleticism and high energy aren't good matches for you -- and you’re not a good match for an athletic, high-energy dog -- no matter how "appealing" he is.

People often make the mistake of thinking that the only thing that counts when choosing a dog is whether he meets THEIR needs. That’s very wrong.

You also have to consider the DOG’S needs -- ALL of his needs --
and whether you’re able to provide for those needs or not.
Every dog breed has different needs.

Some breeds need extra socialization to keep them from becoming aggressive or shy. Some breeds need a home without children or cats. Some breeds need an extra high fence. Some breeds need an experienced owner who knows how to handle dominant or stubborn dogs.

So for each dog breed trait, don’t just ask yourself if you like that trait. Also ask: "What does this trait require from me, and can I provide that?"

Dog breed traits to consider

1. Size

Tiny and small dogs have very different needs compared to large and giant dogs. Don't acquire a dog at either end of the size spectrum until you learn what those needs are and whether you can really provide them.

2. Brushing

For some dogs, you need only brush dirt and loose hair from their short coat. Other dogs require brushing and combing twice a week to prevent mats and tangles. And dogs with a long coat require a dedicated routine of 10-20 minutes, every other day, else their coat will be an ugly, matted mass.

3. Trimming/clipping

Some coats require that you use scissors or electric clippers to remove longish hairs around the feet, chest, and stomach, and also trim around the anal area and groin so these areas stay clean and sanitary. Some coats require significant trimming or clipping -- the entire coat must be scissored or clipped several times a year.

4. Shedding/allergies

Many people want a non-shedding dog, but the only breeds that don't shed at all are hairless breeds. Next, there are a small handful of breeds that shed very lightly. Then there are about two dozen breeds that shed lightly.The majority of breeds are average shedders, which means that in our temperature-controlled houses, they shed very small amounts of hair all through the year PLUS a heavier 3-week shedding period each spring and fall. Finally, some breeds are heavy shedders. They shed small amounts of hair throughout the year, and so much hair during their spring and fall shedding seasons that the chunks need to be raked out with a special shedding brush.

5. Attitude toward children

When you’re trying to choose a dog, the issue of children can be a real problem. The reality is that from a dog’s perspective, children are NOT like adult human beings at all.

I've written a book called How To Buy a Good Dog that talks very frankly about choosing a safe breed for children. For many reasons (all of which are covered in the book), the majority of purebred dog breeds are not suitable for children under age 10. I'll tell you which breeds I DO recommend for young children, which breeds I don't recommend, and which breeds are the very worst choices.

More dog breed traits...

6. Amount of physical exercise
7. Amount of mental exercise/activities
8. Recommended fence height
9. Risk of aggression toward people
10. Risk of aggression toward other dogs
11. Attitude toward cats and other small pets
12. Obedience/trainability
13. Lifespan
14. Cost